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No problems here. Just opened the ts125 parts manual on my mobile with no issues.
What happens when you try to access?
Hi Donald. For simplicity I’d be looking to go back to the original bvf carb, unless it’s really worn. A 24mm carb on the 125 barrel will provide no benefit, in fact I’ve heard it makes things worse.
Also the new carbs are utter rubbish, I’ve not heard one good thing about them. Im amazed the eBay sellers still list them.
I don’t think I have a spare later carb – lots of earlier ones without the throttle stop screw.
These guys look helpful – EngineCorePlugs.com – and no I’m not making it up! https://enginecoreplugs.com/product/core-plug-cup-type-10mm/
Hi Richard. The 1mm value in the manual wont be up&down play – you would certainly know all about it if that was the case! Looking at the manual, the vertical play (radial) limit is 0.05mm (or 2 thou) – so hardly measurable.
As for side play, the manual says the conrod is “guided by the small end bush, that is why the axial clearance can be a little larger at the oppsite end”
I’d be tempted to chuck it back together
I’ve had a 125 big end sieze. Wasn’t too bad, as it was expected, considering the noise.
On my TS 125, getting the shoes re-lined with a softer lining and turned to match the hub helped. Possibly get the hub skimmed.
The usual thing is to fit a different brake, either the ETZ disc (Try the Sweller site – http://www.sweller.co.uk/mz/mods/mod_wab.html) or a honda twin leading shoe (You’ll need to lace a hub to the rim)
Alternatively buy good quality boots and put your feet down to stop (worked on my mopeds)
Problem solved – the cable is routed behind a tag on the seal holder (for the layshaft/output shaft seal). I did put a length of heatshrink around the whole wire, just to add another layer of protection.
Whilst changing the coil I replaced the brushes on the generator. Obviously that wont make any difference to the ignition system, but they were well past the service limit. Might be worth checking, especially if you’re as complacent as me.
Thanks for your reply – turns out it was an iffy coil. I replaced the coil and condenser and it’s been running really well for the last 2000 miles. No more misfiring or stopping when it gets hot either! I’m not too sure what I expected from a coil which must have been sitting in the rain for a decade!
In the end I ‘splashed out’ and bought a new condenser and genuine coil from the MZ shop. Coil was slightly deerer than the ones from germany or on ebay, but I’ve had no issues at all, and it’s turned out to be a bargain. Condenser and coil was around £40 posted, money well spent.
Plus it arrived in a few days, so the bike wasn’t off the road for hardly any time at all.
I can’t blame the condensers, but to answer your question, the condensers were from either Ost2Rad or ebay. I can’t remember. They’re probably O.K – it’s just they (like any other condenser) wont like an iffy coil!
I had the same issue – the condensor would last 30 miles, and then the bike would start misfiring when coming up to junctions. Often stopping. Check with another coil, but a good coil, don’t make the same mistake I did!
Thanks for the reply.
I had one rubber seal, so used that on the inside to stop any grease getting on the shoes.
As I only intend to use the wheel for no more than a week, I’ve left the other bearing open and filled it with lots of grease. I’ve used the aluminium cap to stop goats from going in there for the time being.
Hopefully my old wheel will be back very soon.
Thanks for the reply. All was OK, and rode the bike home after checking the voltage across the battery. voltage was around 7v. Assumed it’s the rubbish bulb holder, and have left it alone – something to investigate on a rainy day.
Maplin was just across the road, so bought the cheapest one they had. Now it lives in my toolbox.
If I had been at home, I would’ve used my normal, analogue voltmeter – it’s easier to visualise what’s wrong when there’s a dial involved!