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Hi. If it’s the one I think you’re referring to, it should be flat.
I believe the MZ Shop has a replacement https://www.themzshop.co.uk/store/ets-125-150-trophy-sport/gearbox-ets-125-150-trophy-sport/splash-washer-for-layshaft/ but worth checking against the parts book firstFor the sake of balance, the coil died on my vape-fitted Ts125 leaving me stranded
Replacement coils are about half the cost of a new kit
I went back to 6v. At least points condensers and coils are cheap enough to carry spares
In fairness, the 12v conversion was brilliant whilst it lasted, but the cost of a replacement coil just annoyed meThe surging is a known quirk of the 250
I don’t know the 250 series well, but I’ve heard of people having reasonable success with changing the pilot jet
Ive also heard some have changed the length of the induction hose
I don’t know the details, so it might be worth posting a separate topic on this forum, or on one of the Facebook groups, as there’s bound to be someone who can help.I expect your current 6v battery is a 6n11a.
A YB5L is the same dimensions, but 12v.A YB5L will fit, however is a fairly low capacity battery at 5Ah (compared to the original 11Ah). Shouldnt be a problem, as the vape kicks out much more electrical power compared to the original dynamo, and the ignition is self generating.
The 250 has a good amount of room in the battery box, so if you take some dimensions you should be able to fit a larger battery. The Tayna website isnt bad for selecting a battery based on dimensions – https://www.tayna.co.uk/motorcycle-batteries/yuasa/?ordering=&A-8=12&A-10=Wet (note that the link is for “Yuasa” brand batteries. I’m not saying Yuasa is the brand to get, but it’s useful for getting the battery code. To be fair, all brands seem equally rubbish nowadays)
Hi Huw
Hopefully you’ve solved the issue, but have you had a look at the parts list on this website to check the dimensions of the cable?
I know the hungarian models did have some minor alterations – and some markets had a stop switch on the front brake backplate, so perhaps there are other differences on the backplate. Maybe that’s why the inner cable may appear to be too long? It wouldnt explain why one cable is fine, and the other isnt!
Have you got the dimensions of the old cable? I have a box of NOS cables which I can go through and measure up.
I fit venhill cables by default on front brakes. They have less friction and thicker inner cables, so give a better brake. Perhaps try them. They may be able to help with a custom cable, should you find the standard cable is unsuitable.
OllieThey’re rubber bushed so there will be a little bit of movement.
Its not a nice job to do, as the rubber bushes are a very tight fit and need to be pressed in at the same time as the inner sleeve. It’s difficult to get it right
I’d leave it as-is unless play is excessive – I guess you could remove one of the nuts to see if they are perished.I havent used a Tezet system, however photos of the wiring diagrams are on their ebay listings. AKU looks like it goes to battery positive.
More than likely the regulator has the same wiring as a standard universal 6-wire regulator / rectifier. If this is the case, it’ll have 3 phase inputs (3 yellow wires), a ground, battery positive and a sensing wire. So I’m pretty sure, from a google search of the universal regulators, that your remaining red wire is to battery positive. Also, translating battery into polish gives “akumulator”.
If in doubt – email tezet directly. They seem very helpful on facebookI think the original brand was Megu, which might help when searching online. “Almot” are considered to be good aftermarket pistons. Some of the cheap aftermarket ones are really bad
Hi Andy
No problems here. Just opened the ts125 parts manual on my mobile with no issues.
What happens when you try to access?
Thanks
OllieHi Donald. For simplicity I’d be looking to go back to the original bvf carb, unless it’s really worn. A 24mm carb on the 125 barrel will provide no benefit, in fact I’ve heard it makes things worse.
Also the new carbs are utter rubbish, I’ve not heard one good thing about them. Im amazed the eBay sellers still list them.
I don’t think I have a spare later carb – lots of earlier ones without the throttle stop screw.These guys look helpful – EngineCorePlugs.com – and no I’m not making it up! https://enginecoreplugs.com/product/core-plug-cup-type-10mm/
Hi Richard. The 1mm value in the manual wont be up&down play – you would certainly know all about it if that was the case! Looking at the manual, the vertical play (radial) limit is 0.05mm (or 2 thou) – so hardly measurable.
As for side play, the manual says the conrod is “guided by the small end bush, that is why the axial clearance can be a little larger at the oppsite end”
I’d be tempted to chuck it back togetherOn my TS 125, getting the shoes re-lined with a softer lining and turned to match the hub helped. Possibly get the hub skimmed.
The usual thing is to fit a different brake, either the ETZ disc (Try the Sweller site – http://www.sweller.co.uk/mz/mods/mod_wab.html) or a honda twin leading shoe (You’ll need to lace a hub to the rim)
Alternatively buy good quality boots and put your feet down to stop (worked on my mopeds)
