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BMW’s have a similar problem on the air heads. The solution there is to have the head machined and a bronze insert installed threaded in, and threaded to take the aluminium retaining nut. Maybe worth talking to BMW onwers, or Bob Porecha in Sydenham.
Have a word with Goffy:
http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/GoffyLEDIndicators.htmI suspect there should be, though you don’t say which model or carb you refer to.
Have a look here:
http://www.themzshop.co.uk/product/rubber-disc-for-choke-plunger/Should do nicely.
Ah! Say – So you did. Not much help then. I take it the coil is of the appropriate resistance in Ohms.
Rarely had to replace a coil, in fact on bikes – never, though they can fail of course. 2cv coils are oil filled and can leak if cracked, and fail if ignition left on not running.
Have you changed the condenser? Those little devils can give similar symptoms.
Definitely not a common size, at least my 18mm ring spanner seldom gets used. Citroen 2cv’s are quirky like that too, lots of m7 bolts with 11mm across the flats.
The relevance of the illuminated rear light suggests something is either incorrectly connected, or is bleeding current from one place to another. Without hands on using a multi meter to check Voltages and continuity, it’s hard to pin point the fault.
17 – 19 there is a number between those two . . . 😉
Hi Mark, just back from being away a week.
Interesting to read your outer was 9mm too short, and my outer was 9mm too long!! I wonder if their stock has got mixed up!?!? Mine came from Cristine Gradisch trading as http://www.oldtimer-teileshop.de
I bought a set of five cables (both brakes; clutch; throttle and choke) for the ES125. Inc. p&p from Germany £19.10p. It’s possible your throttle cable would have fitted mine perfectly, and visa versa!Sounds like the cable outer is a bit short, or the inner a bit long (same effect). If any end ferrules are all in place and are fully seated in their respective locations, you might need to add another at some point to compensate for the discrepancy allowing the cable adjuster to work on the tickover, either that or if you are handy with the soldering, shorten the inner – but measure carefully first.
Mark you, I only have had ‘hands on’ with an ES125, and the new cable I got from Germany had an outer 9mm too long, preventing the throttle slide from closing at all! Did it rev!! Shortening the outer cured that one.
Thanks Stuart, I have in fact done just as suggested, and sent off a small order to Ost2rad, the spring was included and arrived by DHL today.
Have had some ‘fun’ with the handlebar yolk too. Someone had decided to lock the steering adjustment nut with the second nut, and fit the yolk on top, finishing off with the bolt that expands the clamping cone bearing down on a rubber washer, as the yolk would not go down any further than this image shows:
Rubber washer absent in this shot. Just one of a number of ‘oddities’ that previous owners have had a hand in.
All new cables have made such a difference too. It’s coming together.
With big ends in general, and with roller or needle bearings specifically, the sooner it gets sorted the better. Once they start rattling, the stresses imposed on crank and con-rod increase, leading to rapid deterioration.
Front or back, it’s the same process. Line up and mark where the mudflap needs to be. Then drill holes in both items – mudflap (if not pre-drilled) and mudguard. If using pop rivets, be sure not to drill holes which are bigger than the rivet diameter, and use washers both sides.
A better way might be to use nuts and bolts as they are easier to remove provided you use stainless items.