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There are several firms offering such a service. I searched for ‘Motorcycle fork tube re-chroming’ and up they come.
I had a pair of stanchions re-chromed years ago for the Yam 175. That mention of Philpots rang a bell – it was with them. £80, but over 25yrs ago. Did a good job.
It’s already available online. Just select paper copy or online.
If you choose online, you will not receive the annual calendar.
See ‘Emag subscription’ in the ‘join/renew’ section. I don’t know if an archive is available, best ask the Boss.I chose online a couple of years ago, but missed the calendar so went back to paper copy. Spend too much time in front of a screen as it is!
In general, I would be inclined to think that part of the clutch is still sticking. I would be looking to remove the primary case cover, and observe what was happening within when the kickstart is operated out of gear with clutch lever pulled in; what is happening when the clutch lever is released; and the same when a gear is selected.
Depending on the degree of ‘looseness’, one bodge would be to raise ‘pimples’ of aluminium evenly around the inner recess where the bearing fits, accompanied by Loctite ‘bearing fit’. But it does depend on the amount of wear and ‘play’.
Use a small pointed punch.Recently renewed my subs, and have just received a 2025 calendar. Excellent!
It appears there were some ‘fireworks’ at the club agm. Details unknown.
But welcome to Binnzy, always enjoyed his ‘out of the box’ style – keep it up mate. Don’t change.
Love the Austin Seven in irrepressible rust. Must read through.Thanks. That has been the case in the past, I wondered if by choosing the ‘online’ magazine things may have changed. I’ll contact the Sec.
I may revert to getting the physical magazine too. I find the online version gets put into a desktop folder and sometimes forgotten! The physical can be taken from room to room (no tablet or fancy smartypants phone) which is a visible reminder, and gets picked up and read more often.
I read something about that elsewhere just recently. I don’t think it was peculiar to MZ, just a necessary engineering solution.
As Andrew states. I had a Honda 50 years ago that had an irregular tickover, which turned out to be worn main bearings affecting the opening and closing of points.
Sounds like you are burning an accumulated amount of fuel built up in the crankcase. Big industrial two strokes can do this leading to a ‘runaway’ engine. I would be looking at seals, gaskets and float chamber levels.
Some fun with a RAP single cylinder semi-diesel. It fires, runs away despite fuel being shut off and rags stuffed over the crankcase air intake, but away it goes!
Oh dear! Your plastic tank may be suffering from osmosis. The dreaded firbreglass bug that bedevils many ‘plastic’ boat hulls.
Some tips here:50:1 is correct for the Supa 5, but the older ones 33:1 is more the mark.
800 miles is not far. Might be wise to ease it in longer with a tad more oil for good measure.
I remember when I bought a Yam. DT175 in the seventies. Ran sweet from new, but pushed it a little after 5 or 600 miles and it partially seized. Pulled over and let it cool for ten minutes and it started up fine. Never had problems again. Maybe just need a little patience.
Depending on whether your Mikuni air/fuel screw adjusts the air, or the fuel at tickover, it will show you either have too much fuel at tickover, or too much air. If the latter, you have an air leak somewhere.
My familarity with Mikunis lapsed after I sold my last CX500 MANY Moons ago! So I will bow out to greater knowledge.
Might want to check that you have not lost a tooth on the first gear pinion. Had that on a Villiers once. Knocking increased as speed increased. Snick into a higher gear and all quiet.
