has any one got an idea of what the headlamp holding bracket looks like for one of these handle bar mounted fairings as far as can gather its an extended bracket coming off the bottom yoke raising the standard headlamp to the fairing light aperture a photo with dimensions would be very useful , thanks all
Can anyone help,i have a 1978 simson s50b which i have owned for years.
I have almost completely restored it but when i purchsed it there was no v5 available and no reg plate.
Does anyone know the process of getting new paper work and an age related number plate, i have the frame and engine numbers available but DVLA are unable to help.
The one last thing to do on my daughter’s MZ is fork oil. Now correct me if i am being stupid, but can I undo the bolt in the bottom of each leg which holds the damper rod in place. This would then allow me to pull the lower leg off to clean.
Then put the leg on push under pressure and do up the bolt. May sound odd but thays how ive been doing my 2001 Triumph bonneville fork oil replacement for years.
I dont mind looking silly so please enlighten me. Loving the MZ by the way.
looking for a ts250/1 engine or good set of crankcases
please contact keith at email@example.com
im in cornwall can travel as far as sommerset.
I am trying to restore a TS 250 supa5, it is currently fitted with a disc brake / front fork assembly from an ETZ I believe. I have the original forks and front wheel from the TS, however I am missing the front wheel hub cover plate (part no. 22-24.279).
Does anyone know where I could get one from please.
Or alternatively I was wondering, is the part really necessary? Could I just make a bush assembly?
Any help /advice would be most appreciated.
Found this on eBay, might be of interest.
Showing on Sky Documentary Channel – all about Ernst Degner’s defection to the West and Suzuki’s involvement. Pretty good viewing, better than I expected.
Can anyone tell me how to remove the main swinging arm bolt on an ES? I have removed nuts from both ends and remove the two smaller tensioning bolts but it won’t budge.? Is it meant to drift out or is more persuasion needed? My bike is a ES 175/1 but I’m assuming it would be the same for all bikes with Earls suspension?
While giving my ETZ250 a bit of a service I decided to treat it to a new tacho drive gear and bush as I knew the bush was worn and the pinion corroded due to water getting in through the tacho cable that had lost some of its plastic outer cover.
It is not a difficult job, other that the plastic bushes can be much too tight on the pinion stem and may need a bit of easing with a sharp rat-tail file.
I put it all back together, the pinion well greased and turning easily, started the bike up and left it running for a couple of minutes.
When I got back, I could see the tacho cable wobbling about and the tacho drive cover was too hot to touch.
When it had cooled down, I stripped it and found the plastic bush had started melting and the new pinion had obviously got very hot as it was ‘blued’ and there were already wear marks on the teeth.
I could not see why this had happened until I studied the old pinion and the new pinion side by side and noticed that the teeth on the new pinion appear to be cut at a steeper angle than the teeth on the old pinion – see picture – and also that the new pinion head is slightly shorter.
This would account for the heat being generated as the worm and pinion teeth did not match.
Has anyone else had this problem? Is it perhaps just another example of poor pattern parts or is it likely that I have been sent a pinion from a different model – any ideas?
Refitting the old rusty pinion and worn out bush (and new tacho cable) and it works fine — there’s a lesson in here somewhere! Andrew
1979 MZ 150ts (South Eastern Ireland):
To enhance your insight: I am completely uneducated in motorcycle maintainance.
It was as driving reliably.
Died out as I arrived at destination 10+kms from start.
I ran started it and drove for 6+kms when it began to choke and died out over the last km.
Done so far:
-Battery dead: Replaced with new one and trickle charger attached.
-Fuse in headlamp blown: replaced
-2 fuses beside regulator blown: replaced
Headlight came on as key was turned.
Fuse in battery compartment nearest back of bike blows instantly, repeatedly (X3) when igntion key is turned to starting position.
Attached some photos. I barely know what I am looking at. I have a basic multimeter. Am Iright to assume that the ignition switch must be ok as it blows the downline fuse?
I can’t access professional assistance until after the holiday season.
Any and all suggestions welcomed.
Tue/Wed 14/15th June Starlight campsite near Muggleswick in Co Durham.
From A68 at Castleside take turning for Stanhope then after about 1 mile take right hand turn for Muggleswick, Edmundbyers and Campsite.
The campsite is on left after a short distance no nearby pubs or shops or cafes.
Site may have mobile bar and café and barbeque if enough interest.
Please let me know if you are planning to attend
Contact Tony Searle
Does anyone have details of how to check ETZ251 factory ignition timing dynamically, with a strobe or similar?
The guidance I can find in Haynes or the DDR manuals refers only to setting the timing statically.
My ETZ 251 has a persistent transmission oil leak, coming from a cast-in recess on the drive side of the engine, in a raised boss that it shares with the tapped hole that houses the neutral switch that’s right next to it. It’s heavy enough to leave a small puddle, if the bike is left parked for a few weeks.
There appears to be the end of an internal engine shaft visible inside this recess, which is pretty illogical!
See the leak source indicated by the screwdriver in the pic below.
It’s been leaking from here since I bought the bike 3 years ago, though with little use, I’ve so far just put up with it.
Looking at parts and workshop manuals, there doesn’t appear to be anything missing that might seal this hole and there are no threads or circlip grooves to retain any such plug.
I’m not inclined to split the motor to investigate, without first finding out a bit more about this, so, do any of you good folk know why there is oil emerging from this part of the motor, and if so what might be done to stop it?
The upper mount for the left side cover on my es250/2 has broken off, either on purpose or accident some time in the past (new project to me).
Is there anybody that has those pre-fabricated brackets that I can simply weld back on (that are on such websites as Ost2rad etc), or indeed anyone have the dimensions of the bracket they can give me such that I can fabricate my own?
After having batteries stolen from my bikes in the past, I’m not exactly happy to have all the electrics (inc battery) simply on display as it is.
Just to tell all that I have Stepped down as Kent rep. Have had problems getting my reports published and are not getting the support from my local members. As from now I will just be an ordinary Member. I will say thanks to all those who have supported me and those who have come to my rally`s. Shame no more stew and dumplings. Cheers all and thanks, Kanunidave.
Have a speedometer here that i’ll not ever use..
Has a reading of 14,942.
Doesn’t come with bulbs or bulb holder- I think the bracket for this clock signifies it for a TS model (?)
After a RHS mirror for ES250/2 please!!
In need of a good ETZ250 barrel with good exhaust threads for my daily bike,Also looking for a complete engine to rebuild to keep me on the road,I’m based in Dorset.
Found this Silver Star for sale, any previous owners out there? Any history on the bike? Probably best if anyone with info PM’s me .