Richard Smith

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Viewing 11 posts - 16 through 26 (of 26 total)
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  • in reply to: Clutch coming off crankshaft taper #7342
    Richard Smith
    Participant

    Just had another thought.There is a very thick washer that goes on the end of the crankshaft,have you put it on?

    in reply to: Clutch coming off crankshaft taper #7341
    Richard Smith
    Participant

    Try putting some washers on the shaft as well as the bearing,to make sure the clutch is fully home.It needs to be very tight .If it still comes off when running,then the crankshaft may have been damaged when it spun off.
    A member of my section, [Yorkshire] had a keyway machined in his crankshaft,to prevent the clutch coming loose,but the cost was not far short of buying a new crank.Don’t know about the 250/1,but a new crank for my ETZ 300 was 90 euros from Ost2Rad,[currently,101 euros],it has now covered 12000 miles without any trouble.

    in reply to: Corrosion on lower frame. #6247
    Richard Smith
    Participant

    Thank you Malcolm for the advice,I will give your suggestions a good dose of thinking about,the one I like best is the butt welding the bottom portion of a scrap frame to mine.If I can find a frame that isn’t as corroded as mine,that is the option I like best.Many thanks.

    in reply to: air leak? #5836
    Richard Smith
    Participant

    Hi Joe,
    before tearing the engine apart,there are a couple of checks you could do. Move the air inlet tube out of the way,and put your hand over the carb inlet while kicking it over,you may need someone else to kick it over,but you will feel if it is sucking.
    Check the pilot jet carefully and also the passage it screws into,it takes very little muck to block it.

    in reply to: super 5 speedo calibration #5687
    Richard Smith
    Participant

    Check your speedo cable,if it’s starting to fray,it will give inaccurate readings.
    Ride through an illuminated speed sign a few times at various speeds,to get a rough idea of how far out your speedo is.

    in reply to: ES250/2 Tyre pressures? #5532
    Richard Smith
    Participant

    Hi,
    My ETZ Haynes manual gives the tyre pressures as all ETZ models as 1.5kg/cm2 front [21psi] and 1.9kg/cm2[27psi].The exception being the 251,which is 24psi front and 27 psi rear.
    hope this helps.
    Terry.

    in reply to: Engine whine #5167
    Richard Smith
    Participant

    Hi Martynn,
    Iread your post with interest,because I have the same issues with my ETZ.I have been following this post in the hope that someone would say,”ah yes,it’s this,this or this”Stephen Wades reply is helpful,so I thought I would pass on my theories. Over the two years I have owned this MZ,the clutch drum,friction and driven plates,the lifting mechanism,and the shim have all been replaced with new.It still rattles!I don’t think it’s the clutch at all,but one of the sliding gears.When I pull the clutch in the rattle persists for a couple of seconds untill the clutch plates separate.Its done this for two years and 8000 miles so I dont think it’s a problem.
    I replaced my noisy primary gears with used ones that were not as worn,and they still whine,but less so. Most of the parts available now for MZs are aftermarket items and I have found the quality sometimes rather dubious.
    Terry Taylor.

    in reply to: CB175 twin-leading shoe brake in 16" MZ rim #5144
    Richard Smith
    Participant

    Peter, you did well to get a wheel rebuilt with SS spokes for £75.I can do it myself but what I need to know is what length are the spokes and what degree of bend do they have at the point where they go through the hub. I want to put it on an ES250, which will have a whole different set of problems to overcome.
    Des

    in reply to: MZ etz 250 rear brake switch #4533
    Richard Smith
    Participant

    Hi,I have 1987 ETZ300,the rear brakelight switch on mine is a tubular type and is fitted on a fork on the rear of the battery box.A long wire and spring is connected to a small lug on the brake pedal pivot.Mine also has a conection on the rear hub,but has a plug in it,and this is how it was when I bought it.
    If yours doesn’t have any of these,I have seen other MZs at rallies that have the rear stoplight switch on the left side swinging arm on a bracket close to the rear brake cross shaft,with a spring connecting it to the arm of the cross shaft.
    Hope you find this helpful. Terry.

    in reply to: Gear change return spring #4181
    Richard Smith
    Participant

    Just found something that could be very helpful.Dial up Youtube on your computer and type in MZ training films.There are about five of them,and they show how to strip and rebuild MZs.
    The chap doing the work can strip and rebuild an MZ engine in a ten minute film!
    Bloody incredible! Reards Terry.

    in reply to: Gear change return spring #4178
    Richard Smith
    Participant

    To get to the gearchange spring the engine has to come out for a complete strip.In theory,it is possible to remove the right hand crankcase half but,if the gear detente spring or arm [behind the primary gear,left side] move out of place [quite likely] then the clutch and primary gear will have to come off to get at it.Only one special tool is essential-a clutch removal tool.The best one is made and sold by Kevin Salt [KGS sales kevin700@btinternet.com] the cheaper ones on e bay are not up to removing a really tight clutch.He also makes a crankcase separator tool [not essential,but sometimes the crankcase halves can be a pig to separate].
    A haynes manual is fairly essential if you are new to MZs,and a couple of hours study will be time well spent so you don’t finish the job [like me] with a shim or important washer left over. Good luck,Terry.

Viewing 11 posts - 16 through 26 (of 26 total)