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Hi Chris, thanks for bringing this to my attention, I was not even aware of the item labelled (1) in figure 188, however it is clear from section 7.1.2 that item (S) is a “broomstick or wooden rod” used to insert it in the frame.
I must soon check out my own ETZ and make sure it’s not blocked.Yep, whatever you want to remove there’s always something else that needs removing first.
Another couple of things:
1) When you refit the cover be sure to grease the splines on the gear change shaft to avoid damaging the o-ring. Grease that as well.
2) Don’t refit the cover with the oil pump still in. If it doesn’t align with the slot in the gear shaft it can break when you tighten the cover bolts.Definitely not! You might break the crankcase cover if you try. You must get the nut off. Keep trying.
I believe the original high bars are unobtainable. I ordered ts high bars and was sent etz bars drilled for the supa5. These are much lower, and were unsatisfactory.
Hello Jack
Swap the forks around, use the mz spindle, and ffit a spacer on the rhs. The original honda spacer cut down to size is suitable. From memory I think it was 22mm.If you are lucky the problem might be with the gear selector mech, rather than the gearbox. If the washer works loose on the end of the selector drum, the selector arm can occasionally jam in the gap rather than riding on the cam. I once had this happen on an ETZ and struggled to get above 1st or 2nd – I forget which, it was a long time ago.
Obviously the fault could be in the gearbox but checking this only involves removing the clutch and primary drive gear, and can be done with the engine in the frame.
Warning: if you remove the cam for inspection take careful note of which way round it goes!Peter,
Surely the TS250 4speed runs on 50:1 petroil, as do the Supa5 and the early ETZ250 Standard model, even thought they all have different size main jets. I think the ETZ Standard and Luxus models both had a 130 jet even though one used prexix and the other did not. If this is correct, the changes in jet size were unrelated to the use of premix or its ratio.A metered oil supply is supposedly more efficient and therefore economical than rough and ready premix, but my own ETZ oil pump runs much richer than the recommended premix ratio of 50:1. This seems to be the common experience; I have not heard of anyone who gets a leaner ratio, as one would expect.
Can anybody explain this?
Have any ETZ owners kept a record of their long term 2T usage?Hi Dick, You will probably find what you want at
http://www.boyerbransden.com/instructions.htmlFor some time I had a supa5 rear wheel and sprocket carrier in my ETZ250, when the original wheel was damaged. It fitted straight in, although I believe the assembly is displaced by a millimeter or two.
Vee Rubber and Mitas make 16″ road tyres which are very cheap and quite well regarded by many people.
