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Membership Man
ModeratorHi Ruud,
I think the problem may be that you don’t own the post. Was it originally created by someone else?
I have looked back several months and cannot find anything authored by you. Tell me what is the post title and when was it first created and I will have another look.Peter
Membership Man
ModeratorHi Keith,
If you are still having problems might be an idea to check you have the corrrect speedo for a supa5. All circular MZ speedos will fit but the internal gearing on the ETZs can be different. The correct speedo will have a ratio of 1.6 stamped on the base somewhere.
Peter
Membership Man
ModeratorHi Rob,
The immediate check on whether its is charging is the ign warning light in the speedo (normally the red one). It should go out as soon as the engine revs up a bit and only come on flickering a bit at tickover. If the light does not come on when first switched on then the bulb has probably blown. In which case the dynamo will not work as it needs the current provided through the bulb to to get the dynamo started.
If thi is the problem, then the neutral light bulb or the speedo light bulbs are all the same dimensions and could be used as a stop gap.Peter
Membership Man
ModeratorWell done.Which switch?
I currently use Pater James Ins having migrated over the years from Carole Nash thru’ Footman James largely because they got very expensive particuarly oveer vehicle changes. Presently PF
J ins charge a £15.75 admin fee and since 1st Jan they have been adding a further £6.50 for the Insurers change fee so they are all at the trough these days. Though my basic premium is quite low I change bikes so often that I more than double my premiums during the year. They are also very good at charging the extra premium but never give you a refund or even a credit if your policy total insured goes down.I think it may be time to seek a new partner who has not yet got greedy with his client base.
Peter
Membership Man
ModeratorWas the clutch giving problems that suggested the plates were stuck? if so then you are probably best off stripping and checking. The clutch is supposedly balanced so best to mark the three heavy bits to make sure they go back the same way. Use a 2 or 3 G clamps to control the release of the springs and to compress for reassembly.
The engine speed clutches are prone to sticking if left for a long time and freeing them in situ brutally by slamming into gear can lead to damage, typically knocking a tooth of 1st gear. Best way is to try and start the bike in gear (you need a quiet straight road for this) and then rock the bike on the throttle. Normally frees it within a few yards.
PeterF
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