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I have ordered the ETZ factory manual from ebay and am waiting for it to appear. Likewise, I have been promised a Haynes ts250 manual. Anyway, started stripping the motor down tonight and I am struggling to get the clutch case off. I have a 5mm gap between the covers, but it seems to be stuck on the end of the crank. I have removed the tacho nut…..
Any tips? Before I make a puller?
Jon -
Progress comes to he who battles on. Got the case off, and rebuilt the other side. The genny came to bits easily, and the ‘special tool’ listed to remove the rotor is not really needed. Just an M10 screw with 100mm of thread and the end reduced down to 7.5mm on the bench grinder. Impact gun the bolt in and the rotor falls off. Easy peasy.
So, do I strip the clutch down to free the plates or just chuck it together and hope for the best?
Jon-
Was the clutch giving problems that suggested the plates were stuck? if so then you are probably best off stripping and checking. The clutch is supposedly balanced so best to mark the three heavy bits to make sure they go back the same way. Use a 2 or 3 G clamps to control the release of the springs and to compress for reassembly.
The engine speed clutches are prone to sticking if left for a long time and freeing them in situ brutally by slamming into gear can lead to damage, typically knocking a tooth of 1st gear. Best way is to try and start the bike in gear (you need a quiet straight road for this) and then rock the bike on the throttle. Normally frees it within a few yards.
PeterF
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Excellent thanks. Its a project bike, bringing it back to life after a 20 year sleep. Ebay is the devil. I am just looking at getting it running initially, before I strip it and re bearing and possibly rebore it.
Need a silencer, if anybodies got a spare, mine is worse than I thought
Jon -
Another question, sorry if its known to all and sundry, but I am new here. Can the TS250 crank seals be changed without splitting the cases? I ask as the circlip holding them in appears to be on the outside. It would be a logical design and everything else about Mz’s so far is fairly logical.
I may as well change these while putting the engine back together, if they can be ‘dug’ out and bashed back in.
Is there a preference on what goes back in? OE or aftermarket?
thanks
Jon -
Crank seals can be changed without splitting the cases. The timing side is easy to get at, you obviously have to remove the clutch cover and clutch to do the other side. Digging them out could cause damage, better to drill a couple of small holes near the periphery but do it gently so you don’t go through the seal protection plate and into the bearing. then insert a couple of self tappers to give the pliers something to grip on. In fact often just screwing the self tappers in pushes the seals out. I usual grind the point of the screws to stop them digging into anything delicate.
Double lipped seals are recommended for the clutch side, single lip seals for the timing side. I have in the past used ordinary seals from Simply Bearings and they probably work just as well.
Peter
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excellent thanks
Jon -
Just bought a pair of seals and the clutch tool. If anybody needs the tool in the NE area, get in touch
Jon -
Just pulled a seal with the two self tapper trip, works a treat, thanks
Jon -
Electrics coming along. Mostly bad earth probs so far
Jon -
bits arrived today;
new ring set
clutch puller tool
crank seals.
let the fun begin……………….
Jon -
clutch side back together (1st time, maybe not the last..) , paper gasket a bit naff. do I use gasket goo? or leave it dry?
Jon
decided not to fit new crank seal, as it appears the previous owner has already fitted them! clutch puller is 18 quid well spent-
I normally try to get hold of the better quality primary drive gaskets which are a bit thicker. Some of the cheapo kits do tend to have pretty flimsy paper jobbies. Unless the mating surfaces have been damaged, the primary drive joint is not normally prone to leaking (the gearchange O ring is the usual cause of any problems from this area). If all looks good I usually just grease the gasket lightly. If in doubt I use something like Wellseal on one side only so that the case can still be removed without destroying the gasket.
PeterF
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exhaust wanted, as mine is quite poor when I have cleaned it up
tyne and wear
thanks
Jon -
thanks Peter, I have some wellseal and will do one side, if I pull the cases again, before I put the motor in.
Had a setback. Just about to fit the new rings and have found theye are std, not plus a 1/2mm. Now waiting for new rings
Jon -
Rings have arrived and fit. Yippee. Tip if buying rings from ebay. there are two sellers on there, one in herts and one in Bristol, use the Bristol one.
Jon -
Rings in , engine back in and wired up. A spark. I suspect a ring ding ding is coming soon
Jon -
Its a goer. Up/down the street and I have 5 gears too. And electrics. Must be MOT time soon. How noisy/quiet are the engines? This one seems a bit noisy. Maybe needs main bearings. The idle adjust screw doesn’t do a lot either
But at least its a goer…..Ignition timing was 0.6mm before TDC not 2.9, so rigging up a DTI got that sorted. Then some easy start…
Jon
Anybody selling a set of engine bearings?-
There are several sites where you can get bearings at good prices. http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/ is one example, look on Ebay or try TheMZShop.co.uk. You need a pair of 6306 bearings with C3 fit.
However, before rushing into stripping the engine you might want to describe the nature of the noises, MZs are not the quietest engines mechanically. A lot of the noise comes from the clutch and primary drive area. Does the noise abate at all when you operate the clutch?
Peter
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thanks, I have had similar thoughts, so tonight I have stripped the head off in case the piston is hitting the head. Its not thank goodness, I was a bit worried I only fitted a single ali shim to the head. The noise is engine speed and doesn’t quieten down with the clutch in. Piston and bore look fine also. It doesn’t sound like a little end rattle.
Another thing for the Mz experts. I am ready for an MOT, except when I switch from dipped to main beam it kills the light and the engine. Dead short presumably. Could this be a bulb issue? The light switch doesn’t appear to have any shorts in it, and I presume there is only one driving coil for the main and dip.
Any help appreciated
Jon-
Jon,
First check that you have a reasonable squish gap setting this should be 1.4 – 1.6mm. Measure it with a piece of solder through the plug hole and make sure it goes right to the edge of the bore as the squish band is quite narrow. Add more shims until its correct. If its way too low the noise may be pinking from too high a cr. Certainly worth checking anyway.
Your dead short is very unlikely to be the bulb unless its fitted incorrectly. The lights (and everything else) are powered by the battery and the regulator will adjust dynamo output to cope with load. If it can cope with dip bean then most unlikely that it could not cope with main beam. My guess is you have a short to earth. All you can do is chase the circuit from the ignition/lighting switch via the dip switch and back to the bulb. As it works on dip beam, the power is clearly getting to the dipswitch ok so most likely the fault is in the dipswitch itself, or in the mainbeam wire. Try just removing the dipswitch from the handlebar first. If that cures the problem then the fault is a short from the switch to earth and should be easy enough to spot.
Peter
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excellent advice Peter , thanks.
I have been thinking along similar lines, but you have just reinforced my thoughts.
I have done part of your recommendations already, but I will start again. New day, clear head
Jon -
Replaced the switch, problem solved. MOT time next…………
Anybody recommend cheap as chips classic low miles insurance? I have a carole nash policy on my other bikes but they want £40 for every change made to it
Jon-
Well done.Which switch?
I currently use Pater James Ins having migrated over the years from Carole Nash thru’ Footman James largely because they got very expensive particuarly oveer vehicle changes. Presently PF
J ins charge a £15.75 admin fee and since 1st Jan they have been adding a further £6.50 for the Insurers change fee so they are all at the trough these days. Though my basic premium is quite low I change bikes so often that I more than double my premiums during the year. They are also very good at charging the extra premium but never give you a refund or even a credit if your policy total insured goes down.I think it may be time to seek a new partner who has not yet got greedy with his client base.
Peter
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Carole nash also greedy. Got charged £42 to add my gpz550, 40% of the total premium. Rang them again tonight and they quoted me £92 for a new classic policy for the Mz and a 1966 Suzi A100 with no no claims. 51 year old, 3 penalty point, no claims history worth talking about. What do you think, is that too much?
Anyway passed its MOT, yippee
Jon -
Congratulations.
Regarding insurance, I would shop around a bit more before committing to the Carol Nash offer – you already know what they will charge if you try in amending the policy later. You might find it worthwhile going with a new broker than adding your other bikes when their cover lapses. I would certainly try Footman James, Peter James and Bennetts for starters (the latter is now owned by Saga and you are in their age range!). However if you look in any of the motorcycle mags or Google bike Ins you will find plenty of choice. If you do find a good deal let everyone know as new players do come to market from time to time. Remember to ask not just for the premium but what their minimum charges are for policy amendments.
Peter
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Yes, over 50, so Saga, thanks!
Wouldn’t it be nice to do an online bike change, after your initial purchase of a years insurance. That way you wouldn’t have to suffer call centres.
I also change my bikes (too) regularly….
Jon -
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[url=http://postimage.org/]pic host[/url] -
Project complete, as far as it needs to be at the moment. MOT, taxed, insured. Rides ok, (optimistic) 70mph at 5200rpm, eager enough to get there. Comfortable, starts 2nd kick, steers fine, turns fine, stopping is a bit of a drama, think it needs new shoes in the front. If I buy them how do I avoid buying NOS material that may be as old as the hills and just as bad?
Also, I have a large stock of leftover bits, is it worth listing them on here?
Jon -
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it aint no show queen….
Jon-
Bike looks fine, very zedcred. Seems like you have g0t a good result for your labours – well done.
All you can do is ask the vendor the provenance of the brake shoes. If you are buying from one of the established dealers I doubt they have any NOS of consumables like brake shoes. These are most likely to crop up if at all from the occasional Ebay advert placed by someone who has found a few spares lying around the garage. In any event, I am not sure that linings deteriorate provided they have been stored properly and some modern linings can be a bit hard and take forever to bed in.
The better way to go if braking remains an issue is to use an ETZ front end with disk brake. There are some wrinkles on this which you should research but its pretty straightforward. You may find you can swap some of your surplus spares – worth asking anyway. Otherwise put them on Ebay.
best wishes
Peter
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Thanks I will list them in here first. I am not looking to make a killing out of them. SR6 if anybodies in need and local
Jon
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