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Hi James
Like the idea and a couple of thoughts.
1) I’m sure the current mag can be exported as a PDF by Steve as I remember a post by James the Chair saying he receives a PDF version of the mag to look at before it goes to the printers. I would assume this is a “full fat” file that is searchable as it’s come from Steve’s publishing/editing software, which has evolved over time.
2) Different editors have used different methods of getting the mag to the printers, indeed the very early ones were typewriter and photocopier jobs. Some had handwritten stuff in them. If they could see what we’re getting now they would be gobsmacked.
Wish you luck with it.
BrianBob
Have you thought about rewinding the starter? That should hopefully work out cost effective.On the previous post there are three different part numbers fot the 500 starter.
Hi Bob
Apologies if this is a duplicate post as thr first one seems to have vanished into the Ether. Probably as I put a couple of links in it.
So look at
Force Motorcycles part number 685-970
Hmm £400
Sportax Racing part number 294-358. Reduced to £270
Hi Bob
Found the Haynes manual and have scanned the relevant pages.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Kk_j5_pQoNGrSnTs-mViICMhW2oPVkBe?usp=drive_link
This has a different starter motor to the one fitted on my bike (G650GS). Quick history lesson, The engine was a Rotax design and built by them from 1993 until around 2006.From 2006 to 2007 BMW had Kymco in Taiwan assemble the last of the Rotax engine parts. When they sorted engine production out and did a mild refresh they realised, that in the meantime, they had used the F650 name for an 800cc twin, oops, an easy enough mistake to make I’m sure you’ll appreciate. You’ve got to love German efficiency. So they called the latest 650 the G650 and this had the engine made and assembled in China by Loncin. This probably accounts for the difference in the starter motors. The BMW manual extract from a previous reply was fom the G650 manual.
Brian
Hi Robert
Can’t put my hands on the Haynes manual at the moment, here’s a pic from the BMW manual.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lv9gSIzvaFLge9c7oYwzTdIKLjt7znd4/view
The cover 4 measures about 64mm dia.
Also the Harris G80 used the Rotax 500 engine.
Diesel Dave’s eBay page
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/196168282103?hash=item2dac8a6ff7:g:W-AAAOSwMgdX1oYe
Hi Robert
I suspect the 650 starter motor will not fit for two reasons, firstly the engines are not identical with the 500 being air cooled with a cam belt and the 650 BMW/aprilia engine is water cooled and has a cam chain.
I have a BMW G650GS so I can take some dims for you and I have the Haynes manual which will have pics etc, let me know what I can do..500 to 650 is a 30% increase so I don’t think they would have used the 500 one on the 650s, but I could be wrong.
A couple of potential sources:
Diesel Dave in West Yorkshire, Bynnzi knows him, He deals in the Armstrong and Harley Davidson military bikes that used the air cooled 350 and 500 engines.
MT Riders group who ride the above bikes http://mtridersclub.co.uk
They have Sales and Wanted sections on their forum.CCM used the 600cc version of the aircooled engine in some of their R30 Supermotos. The 600 engine was a direct swap for the 350/500 so maybe you’ll get lucky. CCM also used a Suzuki engine in the R30 so beware.
The above reminds me of when I asked my Mum what a couple was and she said “Oh two or three” no wonder my Dad divorced her:)
Hope this helps.
Brian
I would suggest using something like a 21W lamp with flying leads to check the wiring. You need something that will draw some power (voltage plus current, not voltage alone) from the system. Modern multimeters draw a minute amount and are not particularly useful for finding bad connections. They’re perfect for finding broken connections though. To use a water analogy the water pressure (voltage) in your home is essentially the same as the pressure in the Main outside but flows (current) less because of the restriction of the smaller bore piping, equivalent to a bad connection in vehicle wiring.
Faultfinding really is just checking in a methodical way, start at the battery and work away connection by connection. Don’t try to check both positive and negative at the same time i.e when checking the positive line leave one of the wires connected to the negative terminal whist you check the connections on the positive side and vice versa. A bad connection will cause the lamp to be less bright. And of course if the lamp doesn’t light up well when put across the battery then you’ve got a really simple solution, recharge or replace.Jjust a thought, you could always use two 6V batteries in series to give 12V. This was standard for, I believe, the MGB for space reasons. If you use two standard 6V 11Ah batteries you will end up with 12V 11Ah. If your 6V battery is in good order then you only need to buy another. There’s loads of room in the battery compartment.
Just for info Tayna deliver filled lead/acid batteries.
They plug the vent and use a sealed plastic bags etc.
Tayna provide straightforward excellent service and provide both brand names and cheaper alternatives. A Yuasa from Tayna won’t be a fake which is always a possibility from some eBay sellers.For what it’s worth I’ve a Yuasa 6N12A-2D (6V 12Ah) battery fitted to my 6V TS250/1. This battery is a different size to the standard battery and is a nice fit in the battery compartment across the frame rather than in line. So far, about two years, I’m happy and fully expect it to go on for a few more years. Every time I’ve bought a cheap no name battery from eBay it’s not lasted and been a waste of money.
All battery technologies require a specific charging protocol to maintain them in good health with a long life. Unfortunately the charging systems of most vehicles is a basic “apply maximun voltage at all times”. This is not a correct charging protocol for any type of battery and the type of battery which copes best with this is Lead/Acid, because it is basic and robust.
I know Bynnzi has not has luck with Motobat AGM batteries on several of his bikes.James
They look about right from the pic attached from the Factory parts book. Part No is correct too. But do check.
Or
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1k_riz4XVT9SnqIfbPD3IVZVRX-REjbbN/view?usp=sharing
One more thing you will need longer cables. I suggest you try what you have first and see what you can get away with.
Brian
James
Time’s not the issue, it’s remembering.
Anyway here’s my measurements and bear in mind that rotating the bars will change the dimensions a bit.
All dims in mm and approximateFlat Bars:
Width: 600mm
Offset horizontally: 100mm – Straight edge across ends of bars and measured to the centre of the handlebar between the clamps.
Offset Vertically: 25mm – The bars are essentially flat so measurement depends on your preference. I’ve not ridden this bike but all felt OK when sitting on it.Raised Bars:
Width: 740mm
Offset horizontally: 90mm – Straight edge across ends of bars and measured to the centre of the handlebar between the clamps. This can be increased/decreased by rotating the bars but will change the angle, both horizontally and vertically of the grips. Nothing a vise and some scaffolding pipe won’t resolve:) This is OK for me at 5′ 10″. This is less accurate than the measurement taken of the flat bars if you need a more accurate measurement just let me know.
Offset Vertically: 100mmAnything else just ask.
Brian
Hi James
It’s straightforward to raise the seat, you just need some spacers and longer 8mm set screws. Experiment with bits of 2 x 2, or similar, with a 9/10mm hole drilled through them. When/if you arrive at a satisfactory size for the spacer then get it made in metal.
Looking at the parts books the same handlebars were fitted to the TS 125/150 and the TS250. I have bikes with both handlebars and will measure them on Sunday and let you know. At a guess I would say that the grip area is a couple of inches higher and a couple of inches further out.
The handlebar is a standard size so bars off other makes will fit, you will only need to drill and tap a hole for the “choke” lever.Brian
Possibly a quick thing you can try is to remove the air filter and the housing if poss. this will weaken the mixture. Or block part of the inlet off which should enrichen the mixture. I don’t expect it to sort your problem but I would expect to see/feel a change if it is the carb.
I don’t know 251s but I presume the carb fitted is essentially the same as fitted throughout the two stroke era. If it has it I would inspect the cold start rubber as if that perishes then it enrichens the mixture. A bit like running with the choke on.
I’d be tempted to clean the exhaust. Probably won’t sort it but narrows the field down and it’s never a bad idea to have a clear exhaust.
I’m with Rob on never underestimating the capacity of bikes to mislead. If you’ve got them to hand try a “new” carb, coil, exhaust etc.
It could be an issue with the ignition module, even just a bad earth.
