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I installed a tezet ignition on my 251 ETZ and had a similar problem re backward running. This seemed to be due to limited adjustment of the sensor to the contact lump on the magnet wheel. It was not possible to achieve the 2mm btdc because the adjuster ran up against the securing stanchion and tdc had already passed ahead of the sensor! I’ve tried to upload some pictures of my solution which is to fix the sensor bracket to the stanchion with its clamping bolt. I will need to drill another hole in the ignition base to hold it properly in place so that the sensor does not move out of line or even foul the magnet wheel. It is now as close to the recommended position as possible. Fingers crossed when I eventually try it out!
Hi John,
Sorted. The said tube is oblong and inset into the frame and would only need changing if a blockage or serious damage to it were to occur. The appearance of what looks like a hollow round tube in the repair manual is actually a representation of the passage of airflow into the frame opening. A blow through the frame opening with compressed air should ensure it isn’t clogged or fouled on its way to the air inlet connection.
Great advice John! By the way the 1984 factory manual for ETZ 250 describes a silencer tube that goes into the oblong hollow of the frame under the fuel tank and connects somehow with the air box. It might not be an essential element and no reference is given to it in the Haynes manual. Do you know if this an actual pipe/tube that runs through the frame or just a way of describing the route of air into the air box before it is drawn into the carburettor? Hopefully this makes sense, and once again I appreciate everyone’s advices.
Thanks John, You were right and I have now managed to remove crankcase! Once I had taken off the centre nut I had to take the footrest from the frame to allow easy extraction. Fortunately I have a side stand to lean it upright otherwise the bolts securing the footrest would not come off with bike on centre stand.
Thanks John ???? I’ll keep trying to undo it. Can you confirm it should unscrew in clockwise direction and how much torque is needed to loosen it off. It’s very stubborn but I won’t try to take off the crankcase cover until I’ve achieved this.
I’ve got it into top gear and stood hard on the rear brake but may need to take the bike off the centre stand and have assistance to keep the brake fully on.Haynes manual (I know folk don’t have much faith in this!) dictates that the left hand crankcase cannot be withdrawn without the removal of the speedometer knurled nut and washer from the clutch centre. However the maker’s manual does not say this! I only want to renew the gasket which seals the left crankcase cover to the central crankcase.
Anyone know if I can just lever off the left crankcase cover without loosening/removing the said nut?Further to the above post, MZ say not to over-rev when stationary but I haven’t anywhere to take the motorcycle before having it MOT tested. Is this likely to cause it damage, oil up the plug or whatever? My plug is a little oiled up after a short start up – is this likely to be because I’ve nowhere to take it for a run until after the MOT or might it indicate an ignition timing or carb problem as tick over not so easy to achieve after a few days.? The tezet electronic ignition I fitted is at the limit of its sensor adjustment at bottom upper left of the magneto, so I think it is in the best place for ignition timing (using the technology measuring device). Any observations welcomed.
Hi Mike,
I’ve just fitted a tezet electronic ignition kit to my 1990 MZ251 ETZ, and with helpful advice from Bynzi and encouragement from others including the article by Rich Warne, I’m very pleased to say that it has transformed the bike from a non starter, not even a spark from the old set up, to an easy starter and now able to tweak the carburettor so that a sweet tick over has been achieved. No old coil, rectifier or old style regulator to worry about.
If I hadn’t gone down this route I think I would have been thinking of passing the bike on as a project for someone who likes points ignition and the complexities that accompany it! Very much recommend you go this route.Hi Mike,
Rich Warne’s article in the May-June edition of MZ Riders mag. Pages 42&43 refers to the tezet electronic ignition system. I’ve just purchased one from eBay for my ETZ251 and waiting to receive it. Hoping it gets the old bike started!
Cheers, Chris
Hi again everyone,
I think I may have fuel to the plug now but spark is very weak, so no combustion! and my faith in the existing electrical ignition is severely lacking. I am thinking of substituting all the major ignition parts with an electronic system as I don’t trust myself to make the points system work even with completely new parts, which all seem quite costly anyway. Is this the way to go? I would welcome any views on the tezet system. Btw this has gone up in price on eBay recently, although I believe you can buy direct.
Hi Keith,
I have a similar problem. I’m on a brand new carb, an OM for the MZ251 B30N1 and I have checked everything twice over but no sign of life. Not a splutter! The spark plug is dry and so I think it must be the carb. I’ve also disconnected the inlet stub from carb to combustion chamber and, kicking it over, the piston slides nicely up and down and there is compression, so no problem at that end. I noticed on disassembling the choke from the carb body that the rubber bung had dislodged from the end of the plunger as mentioned by Andrew (is there a way to stop this happening? – it is a new carb btw). I wait with interest to hear others’ views.
