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I would agree with Ollie above, especially in that all brands seem equally rubbish nowadays and it’s the luck of the draw if you get a good conventional lead-acid one that lasts.
If you are going with a smaller 12v YB5, you could cut down on power usage by fitting a 12v Ultra-bright LED parking light bulb in the headlamp (BA9S) which is brighter than using a dipped headlight with a conventional bulb if you are using the headlight as a day riding light. (Available on eBay)
If you are feeling flush you could fit a Lithium battery – I put a JMT YB5 on my Supa5 with Vape Powerdynamo and it worked fine.
It is the same size (120wide x60deep x92high) as the 6v original so fits in the space, only weighs 420grams and they tend to maintain their charge if not being used, like over winter perhaps, in fact they don’t recommend trickle charging them.
If you do need to charge it however, you should use a specific charger so factor that in!!My comments are somewhat after the event so you may have sorted it by now, but:
Regarding the crank not running true, if you remove the side cover and start the motor and look straight on at the end of the cam I would have thought that if the crankshaft was running so out of true as to be causing your problem, then you would be able to see the generator slip ring actually running out of true and also see carbon brushes jiggling about backwards and forwards in the holder.
I would also imagine that if the shaft was bent and the rotor was running out of true, it would cause a serious vibration and as there is not much clearance between the rotor and stator coils, there might be a sign of rubbing between the two.
I just wonder if there is some damage right at the end of the shaft where the points cam locates due to a previous owner riving off the rotor with the wrong extractor tool. If so then could it be that the cam is not seating properly?
Final thought, are the engine main bearings OK and not really worn on that side which might enable the shaft to flail about a bit!
Other than that, I’m stumped!
My TS250/1 Supa 5 has ETZ 250 forks and disk brake so I can’t speak from actual experience but looking at the TS250/1 parts list on this site, on the drum brake wheel, there does not seem to be anything called a bearing seal.
The exploded diagram shows 2 bearings, a distance tube and 2 packing rings (part no 01-24.314) – are those are what you mean by wheel bearing seal?
Presumably you can use sealed bearings as well, but I note that ‘The MZ Shop’ lists ‘packing rings’ under the 01-24.314 part number and has them in stock.
Other MZ parts suppliers may also have them – try Martin Burwin – contact number is on his advert in the Club magazine.
Regards
AndrewDoh! Thanks for that, I had not noticed the ‘download’ button.
Still, it is odd that I can no longer read them on the club website whereas previously I could.
There’s a rabbit off somewhere as they say!Same here with problems, which I have noticed over the last 2 weeks or so.
Parts lists and manuals come on screen as ‘loading’ then show the page 1 illustration but scrolling down to page 2 just shows a blank page and then cannot scroll further down or backwards and so have to exit to get off the page.
Manuals / Parts lists do not open on my laptop (Chromebook) where previously I have never had a problem.
Have tried on phone but same as on laptop, nothing opens.
Hi Chris.
The rubber disk is just a push fit in the recess in the end of the plunger so should not easily drop out, especially on a new carb – this makes me wonder about the ‘quality’ of your new carb and whether this is really the problem!Dry the plunger and disk and use a tiny drop of superglue perhaps to hold it in place.
When the bike is running (if you get that far!) and the choke is in the off position, the plunger with its rubber disk is spring loaded up against the choke fuel feed opening so it can’t just drop out.
You say the spark plug is dry, but if the choke plunger disk is displaced or missing then the carb would flood constantly and there would be fuel everywhere so that is probably not your main problem.
There are reports about the variable quality of aftermarket copies, some report no problems and some report that they just put them in the bin.
I bought a new MZA carb (with the BVF logo cast in the body) which was more expensive than some of the ‘chinese copies’ and have not had any problems (so far) but bear in mind that back in the day, even when new, the original carbs were fairly crude and wear quickly.
Did your bike work ok before you fitted the new carb?
Check fuel is getting from the tank to the carb?
Check fuel actually getting into the float bowl – flip the clip off?Try a few mls of fuel down the plug hole and see if you get at least a splutter.
Let me know!
Hi Keith, I just wondered if you had checked whether or not the plug gets wetted with fuel as it should do if the fuel is getting through but it’s not firing up?
If the plug is dry, try putting a few mls of petrol down the plug hole, refit the plug and try kicking it again.
If it fires into life just for a few seconds then it proves you have a spark and at more or less the right timing and shows that it’s likely to be a carb problem.If the plug is really wet, is the carb flooding? If you have had the carb to bits to clean it, have you lost/misplaced the little rubber disk off the end of the choke plunger so fuel runs in all the time?
I would be interested to know the answer as my TS250/1 motor is also in bits at the moment for a new big-end!!
Hi Mike, you don’t say if this is your first experience with an MZ but if it is, I can tell you that most MZ ‘rides out’ are happily not as mechanically exciting as you have described.
I am not sure whether you should be looking for a mechanical reason or should be phoning a priest to perform an excorsism!
Anyway a few thoughts:
– Contact the seller – may be able to give you a clue – take a couple of burly mates and suggest having your money back!– Re the gear change problem, there can be many reasons for this which involve grubbing about with the gearbox internals but firstly check that the detent ball and spring are still in place in the plug under the engine.
If the level screw was missing and oil was leaking over the motor then it may indicate that the oil has been recently changed and its easy to remove the ‘wrong’ plug and lose the ball and spring in the old oil.
I have had 2 MZs with the ball and spring missing.Re the screaming, remove the plug and check that the ignition switch actually turns the spark on and off.
If it carries on running even without the plug cap on then there must be a hot spot within the combustion chamber – is it the plug electrode overheating because the mixture is very lean or there’s a build up of carbon on the head or even a home made gasket with raggy edges.
Is the carb slide very worn so air is leaking past to cause lean running?
Check the throttle and choke cable are not badly routed, trapped, crimped or just too short when you turn the bars from lock to lock.
If the motor is screaming, it’s obviously getting fuel and air so look at the carb end of the choke mechanism to check the rubber seal is in place and not leaking fuel through, check the carb is a tight fit in the manifold and the manifold is properly fitted to the barrel.
Check the carb throttle slide return spring is doing its job.
Does the carb look new – is it a cheap Chinese copy, many of which work fine but some don’t?Re the loose exhaust, that might indicate that it was not put together tightly or screwed in without the sealing gasket ring.
Hopefully it’s not because the exhaust port threads are sha**ed!Apart from that I’m fresh out of ideas but I’m new-ish to MZs so I imagine our more experienced MZ-ers will be able to put you right.
If all fails, I have a nice crisp £10 note waiting and I’ll take the pain away – just down the valley in the N Pennines!!
Regards
Andrew
