Andrew Staley

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Viewing 7 posts - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)
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  • in reply to: 1981 MZ TS 250/1 front wheel bearing seal #15125
    Andrew Staley
    Participant

    My TS250/1 Supa 5 has ETZ 250 forks and disk brake so I can’t speak from actual experience but looking at the TS250/1 parts list on this site, on the drum brake wheel, there does not seem to be anything called a bearing seal.
    The exploded diagram shows 2 bearings, a distance tube and 2 packing rings (part no 01-24.314) – are those are what you mean by wheel bearing seal?
    Presumably you can use sealed bearings as well, but I note that ‘The MZ Shop’ lists ‘packing rings’ under the 01-24.314 part number and has them in stock.
    Other MZ parts suppliers may also have them – try Martin Burwin – contact number is on his advert in the Club magazine.
    Regards
    Andrew

    in reply to: Parts Lists #14850
    Andrew Staley
    Participant

    Thanks very much for sorting that.

    Manuals and Parts Lists work fine for me now.

    Andrew

    in reply to: Parts Lists #14697
    Andrew Staley
    Participant

    Doh! Thanks for that, I had not noticed the ‘download’ button.

    Still, it is odd that I can no longer read them on the club website whereas previously I could.
    There’s a rabbit off somewhere as they say!

    in reply to: Parts Lists #14693
    Andrew Staley
    Participant

    Same here with problems, which I have noticed over the last 2 weeks or so.

    Parts lists and manuals come on screen as ‘loading’ then show the page 1 illustration but scrolling down to page 2 just shows a blank page and then cannot scroll further down or backwards and so have to exit to get off the page.

    Manuals / Parts lists do not open on my laptop (Chromebook) where previously I have never had a problem.

    Have tried on phone but same as on laptop, nothing opens.

    in reply to: Losing the will to live #14242
    Andrew Staley
    Participant

    Hi Chris.
    The rubber disk is just a push fit in the recess in the end of the plunger so should not easily drop out, especially on a new carb – this makes me wonder about the ‘quality’ of your new carb and whether this is really the problem!

    Dry the plunger and disk and use a tiny drop of superglue perhaps to hold it in place.

    When the bike is running (if you get that far!) and the choke is in the off position, the plunger with its rubber disk is spring loaded up against the choke fuel feed opening so it can’t just drop out.

    You say the spark plug is dry, but if the choke plunger disk is displaced or missing then the carb would flood constantly and there would be fuel everywhere so that is probably not your main problem.

    There are reports about the variable quality of aftermarket copies, some report no problems and some report that they just put them in the bin.

    I bought a new MZA carb (with the BVF logo cast in the body) which was more expensive than some of the ‘chinese copies’ and have not had any problems (so far) but bear in mind that back in the day, even when new, the original carbs were fairly crude and wear quickly.

    Did your bike work ok before you fitted the new carb?
    Check fuel is getting from the tank to the carb?
    Check fuel actually getting into the float bowl – flip the clip off?

    Try a few mls of fuel down the plug hole and see if you get at least a splutter.

    Let me know!

    in reply to: Losing the will to live #14084
    Andrew Staley
    Participant

    Hi Keith, I just wondered if you had checked whether or not the plug gets wetted with fuel as it should do if the fuel is getting through but it’s not firing up?

    If the plug is dry, try putting a few mls of petrol down the plug hole, refit the plug and try kicking it again.
    If it fires into life just for a few seconds then it proves you have a spark and at more or less the right timing and shows that it’s likely to be a carb problem.

    If the plug is really wet, is the carb flooding? If you have had the carb to bits to clean it, have you lost/misplaced the little rubber disk off the end of the choke plunger so fuel runs in all the time?

    I would be interested to know the answer as my TS250/1 motor is also in bits at the moment for a new big-end!!

    in reply to: Intro and question #13328
    Andrew Staley
    Participant

    Hi Mike, you don’t say if this is your first experience with an MZ but if it is, I can tell you that most MZ ‘rides out’ are happily not as mechanically exciting as you have described.

    I am not sure whether you should be looking for a mechanical reason or should be phoning a priest to perform an excorsism!

    Anyway a few thoughts:
    – Contact the seller – may be able to give you a clue – take a couple of burly mates and suggest having your money back!

    – Re the gear change problem, there can be many reasons for this which involve grubbing about with the gearbox internals but firstly check that the detent ball and spring are still in place in the plug under the engine.
    If the level screw was missing and oil was leaking over the motor then it may indicate that the oil has been recently changed and its easy to remove the ‘wrong’ plug and lose the ball and spring in the old oil.
    I have had 2 MZs with the ball and spring missing.

    Re the screaming, remove the plug and check that the ignition switch actually turns the spark on and off.
    If it carries on running even without the plug cap on then there must be a hot spot within the combustion chamber – is it the plug electrode overheating because the mixture is very lean or there’s a build up of carbon on the head or even a home made gasket with raggy edges.
    Is the carb slide very worn so air is leaking past to cause lean running?
    Check the throttle and choke cable are not badly routed, trapped, crimped or just too short when you turn the bars from lock to lock.
    If the motor is screaming, it’s obviously getting fuel and air so look at the carb end of the choke mechanism to check the rubber seal is in place and not leaking fuel through, check the carb is a tight fit in the manifold and the manifold is properly fitted to the barrel.
    Check the carb throttle slide return spring is doing its job.
    Does the carb look new – is it a cheap Chinese copy, many of which work fine but some don’t?

    Re the loose exhaust, that might indicate that it was not put together tightly or screwed in without the sealing gasket ring.
    Hopefully it’s not because the exhaust port threads are sha**ed!

    Apart from that I’m fresh out of ideas but I’m new-ish to MZs so I imagine our more experienced MZ-ers will be able to put you right.

    If all fails, I have a nice crisp £10 note waiting and I’ll take the pain away – just down the valley in the N Pennines!!

    Regards
    Andrew

Viewing 7 posts - 1 through 7 (of 7 total)