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Andrew James
ParticipantSounds like there is not a lot wrong and the clutch is just suffering from standing. I suspect the clutch may free up with a bit of running so you could
temporarily take up the 1/8 slack at the leaver which will lift the plates slightly more
kick it over a good few times with the clutch pulled in
put the bike on its centre stand and make sure the back wheel is off the ground. Then start it up run it a few minutes with the clutch in to spread the oil and then slip it in gear but keep the clutch in too. The back wheel will probably spin but a few dabs on the back brake may let you run the bike clutch in, in gear and rear wheel stationary. This will warm the clutch and may free it up without stripping and cleaning.
Let us know how you get on
Hope this helps, Andy
Andrew James
ParticipantMorning John, if you are just tidying up before you go then try a handful of nuts and short bolts in the tank with some fuel and give the whole thing a good shake! Try not to go too hard in the fuel tap area or you may damage the reserve pipe and filter.
Andy
Andrew James
ParticipantMichael, I think you can still buy them from the club. click on the “Regalia” heading at the top of the web page then on the first heading which includes a reference to Hints and Tips.
Hope this helps
Andy
Andrew James
ParticipantSorry can’t offer any advice on that one Keith, adjusting the end float into tolerance sorted my clutch noise which was at its worse when the clutch lever was pulled in. It would appear you have a different issue to explore
Andrew James
ParticipantYou can shim the crank end float with the engine in the bike easy enough. You need to set up a dial gauge to measure how much end float there is and then measure the shim you have and get a thicker shim to “correct” the end float back into tolerance. I had a nose which was worse when I pulled the clutch lever in indicated excess end float was causing the primary drive gears not to mesh cleanly. The MZ manual is easy enough to follow if you have access to the right tools to measure the end float and existing shim and to remove the clutch.
I’m not sure but believe a more consistent “gearbox noise” may be because the primary gear itself needs shimming but I haven’t done that job, my noise was resolved when I got the crank end float in tolerance.
If you haven’t got access to an MZ manual I could email an extract to cover shimming the end float
Hope that helps
Andy
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