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On further checking, kicking the engine over with the clutch pulled in frees the engine from the kickstart, so the clutch seems to be working. On the other hand, when I pull the clutch in , place the bike in gear and then push it, the clutch does not disconnect the engine from the rear wheel. So the clutch does not seem to be sticking, but it won’t disconnect the engine from the rear wheel when the bike is in gear.
Hello again,
having replaced the original carb with a Mikuni, the bike is now starting second kick! I’m assuming that the bike was flooding which was causing the reluctance to start although the carb was clear and the float height was checked so a bit of a mystery. Anyhoo, now on to the clutch!
Hello thanks for the tip but 300+ Euros is a bit outside my price range at the moment! How about the Solvart system which fits in place of the points? Has anyone tried it?
Hello again,
I was checking the ES250/2 again earlier this year and found that the problem was corrosion in the ignition switch. The switch has little steel pins which extend through the base of the switch between the brass switch rotor section and the base terminals and the pins had corroded causing intermittent resistance. The switch was a new one but the pins don’t seem to have been plated so the steel started to corrode almost immediately, and the contact surfaces at the ends of the pins are very small. I made stainless steel replacements and fitted them with no problems since. You need to separate the upper and lower halves of the switch and the pins are visible when you remove the rotor.Cheers, MikeJ
Hello Matthew,
thanks for the reply – I’m thinking that somehow the ignition switch was earthing via the regulator if the regulator switching arm was stuck closed but that’s just a surmise. It seemed to instantly solve the problem when I moved the switching arm by hand. My old 150 had a similar problem caused by the mechanical regulator.
Cheers, Mike
Hello Brians,
many thanks for your replies and the useful info. Many years ago I had to push a TS150 14 miles home as the regulator had packed up so I decided to have a fiddle with that after rechecking the battery earth – Bingo, everything worked after I’d gently moved the mobile switching points, so I’ll be fitting an electronic regulator, which I bought for a TS125. Do you know if there is any reason not to fit it to the ES250/2 as they are both 6v?
Cheers, MikeJ
