Rear brake arm fitting – any tips?

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    • October 12, 2015 at 8:13 am #5932
      Anonymous
      Inactive

      Hi

      I’ve just about finished reconditioning a 79 TS250/1 and I’m struggling with re-fitting the rear brake arms (the one that fits on the left and side of the rear brake pedal shaft and the one that fits on the rear drum plate – both are fitted with horrible cheap and nasty pressed steel arms with serrations that should match to the splines on the brake shaft and brake actuator…..but don’t. They seem to be an interference fit.

      These are a PITA to fit (and I’m having no joy so far) – any tips as to how to get these on?

    • October 13, 2015 at 8:01 am #5957
      Anonymous
      Inactive

      Just looked at mine with the view to getting more angle on the rear arm. Got the rear arm off and back on. Tricky but ok. Thought the spindle was going back into the drum. After that I gave up. That spring on the front arm !!!
      Can you not get a big screwdriver or similar into the arm slot and “spread” it
      to open up the bore a bit.

    • October 13, 2015 at 8:20 am #5958
      Anonymous
      Inactive

      Hi Rob,

      Tried the “big screwdriver” approach to no avail – tends to deform, rather than enlarge.

      Will take a small three square file to the serrations to try and get some more clearance (should clamp back down when the retaining bolt gets tightened).

      …..don’t get me started on springs……had similar fun with the side stand spring so not particularly looking forward to tensioning the rear brake spring……

    • October 16, 2015 at 7:04 am #5988
      Peter Fielding
      Participant

      The usual problem with both these brake arsm is that they have been overtightened in the past. Getting the rear one on its often necessary to remove the wheel and brake plate so it can be tapped on without knocking the spindle through. Probably best to get the other end sorted first so you know what angle is needed at the hub end.

      Filing the serrations will probably help at the front and I wul dalso dress the serrations on the shaft itself to get a lead-in. If you take the silencer off (easy enough) you can use some 8 or 10mm threaded bar to draw the two parts together. Don’t forget to replace the spring first – its a PITA to get on afterwards but it can be left loose then use a short screwdriver to hook it into position once the arm is located.

      Hope that helps

      Peter

    • October 16, 2015 at 7:20 am #5989
      Anonymous
      Inactive

      Hi Peter,

      Thanks for the tips – I’ll let you know how I get on.

      GordonH

    • January 11, 2016 at 3:32 pm #6335
      Anonymous
      Inactive

      ….I used the 8mm threaded bar method – worked a treat!

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