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Hi Just to clear up.
I was of course pricing on a set of tools made to factory drawings apart from the disassembling bridge (which would have mimicked the original)
Obviously the crank end protection piece would have been included in my price along with a photographed step by step guide and a phone number (mine) to use as a help line.
The seal/bearing drifts would allow refit of seals with the engine in frame and would have fitted the components perfectly.
Although £90.00 quid may seem expensive we also have to consider cost of tooling, materials and labor.
I priced at two hours work (machining, welding) a set and materials.
That was inclusive of high tensile bolts for the tee bars.
My regards
Big Alcontact me on gewehr@ntlworld.com
I will give you my phone number we can discusscontact me on gewehr@ntlworld.com
Hi
Right I’ve had a good look at this so here goes
I will make a channel iron bridge which will do the job but is not the same as ost rads or kgs.
Two bearing / oil seal fitting drifts
Clutch puller Tee handle type and protection piece.
and alternator puller Tee handle.
this set will do everything you need to split the engine I would recommend a set of three leg pullers that will turn into two legs if required, ( the two legs remove primary drive gear)
I will source these and add to the set if required
cost £90.00 without the above.
Are you all still interested?
An old bungee strap is also necessary as remove all the final drive and primary stuff clutch alternator prior to removing the barrel and head.
this make the job real easy.
cheers
Big Al Oxford Outlaw.Hi
Regarding clutch puller the only thing I would add is the factory design is far better than any other it has a protection piece that stops the end of the bolt coming into contact with the crank, my own model has a tee bar allowing you to hit both ends with a hammer simultaneously which shocks the clutch off.
The bolt /spanner style is realistically in my opinion of poor design.
I would be prepared to make clutch pullers as described but have yet to work out cost.
how desperate are you for the tools?
I may work something out, are you local to Nottingham?
regards
Big Al Oxford Outlaw.Hi
Looking into this quickly I will not be able to beat ost rads price on anything they sell.
KGS are selling a clutch puller and fot a high chrome part I cannot compete with that either his engine splitting tool looks good as well.
Really I don’t want to tread on his toes or use his design.
The alternator puller is realistically a bolt with a bar welded on it and ost rad are as cheap as I can go.
That leaves the bearing / oil seal drifts I can make one that will do both jobs for about £20 ish a side.
Thats how it is from here. I have to buy in material and finance making the stuff.
cheers
Big AlHi
Sorry for the delay
I make a lot of other stuff so Ive been busy.I will get the manual out and price them up
that would be splitter ,clutch puller ,alternator puller and the two seal drifts
Myself I have got away with using the one.
I shall price up individually.
I also am making the old style friction steering dampers for TS and ETZ
cheers
AlHi im a new member but not new to mz
the tool pictured is the proper crank case splitting tool it would require a correct to drawing clutch puller and a further tool the name of which escapes me now.and I don’t have my manual to hand.
I have a fully equipped workshop and could price up the tools and make any in the rear of the factory manual.
Years ago whilst heavily involved in mz I made a set so making is not an issue.
I would personally recommend that the correct tool as shown is used it may avoid negligent damage to the crank cases.
other useful tools are the oil seal application drifts allowing refit of the seals without removing the engine from the machine.
please ask for any more info
regards
Big Al. Oxford Outlaw.
