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You can actually get the supa 5 brakes to work well. SAFTEC will reline the shoes with decent material and machine to size. Alternatively, get oversize lining fitted and get them machined locally. Put a 20thou shim each side of the cam and the fit will be perfect.
Much of the problem with the brakes is down to excess clearance between shoes and drum. The brake cam is shaped to give maximum mechanical advantage with minimum clearance between linings and drum. After that the shoes operate on a larger radius and leverage is lost. If you look on Real Classic website I did an article years ago, with photos. I think it’s easier that fitting a TLS brake.
TLS brakes are ok going forward but don’t hold you very well in reverse, as on a hill.
Also, make sure the brake cable is strong, with no spring in the outer.
Cost about £30 inc p&p.
Hope that helps.
Malcolm.Athur,
Assuming it is a 250/300/301 rather than a 125/150.
It can be one of several things:
Incorrect adjustment at the engine end of the clutch cable.
Distorted clutch drum from being removed using a bearing puller, rather than the correct tool.
Distorted clutch plates.
Lack of end-float behind the primary drive gear. There are variable shims to correct this(if you can get them).
The first one is easy to correct if you have the manual.
The last three all require a strip down and careful examination, as per the
manual.
Hope that helps.
Malcolm.Thank you Bill. That’s interesting about the gudgeon pin diameter.
it would be no trouble to shorten the barrel if the port timing was close enough to play with.
I’m hoping to get the ETZ piston at our monthly meeting so should be able to go from there.
Thanks again,
Malcolm.James,
The 250/1 is a bit cramped. It’s just that we didn’t notice it when we were 30 years younger! I could handle clip-ons halfway down the forks but now need an upright bike with a gell pad on the seat.Instead of lowering the footrests you could raise the seat by fitting spacers to the mounting bolts. M8 connector nuts do the trick. They are about 25mm long.
Fasten them into the seat base with short lengths of M8 studs and then screw the seat bolts into the nuts. You can always change back to standard.
The beauty of this is that it doesn’t change the ground clearance or change footbrake or gearchange positions.On pre-mix bikes I always try to pour in the oil alongside the petrol as this seems to mix it nicely. I use a suitable size bottle for 5 litres at a time. Also, switch off the fuel tap before refuelling and give the bike a shake before switching back on. Good two-stroke oil usually mixes quite well, unlike the straight mineral oil we used back in the 16:1 sixties.
Have you tried the 6 volt halogen bulbs from Goff? They were fitted to my GN400 along with relays, rather than the heated strip type flasher unit. They work brilliantly and give very positive on-off flashes. The system uses an electronic flasher which then triggers a 6 volt relay for each circuit i.e. left and right.
I didn’t install it but, if you want, I can figure out the circuit and send it to you.Thanks Gerr.
I’m looking for a VM34 to put on my GN400 as the Cv carb is getting a bit long in the tooth now. New ones are a bit pricy!
Ride safe,
Malcolm.Ger,
Is your Jikov the square float chamber or the old side float chamber?
mine was the older one on a 632(I think! Jawa model numbers defeat me) and I could not get it to pull. I had a square float carb which I tried but could not get the float to control the fuel level. When running it felt powerful and smooth but I decided in the end to spend my way out of trouble. I certainly got more than 42mpg. The down side was getting the filter housing to match up with the Mikuni!
Cheers,
Malcolm.Mike,
Motocarb of Liverpool sell the carbs and include a selection of jets. If he has supplied one for an MZ he will probably know jet sizes. My Jawa was the first so the jet sizes were a bit of a guess but it worked out just fine.
I always suspected that the shunting on over-run was a mixture of a weak ignition system and having the carb stop too high.
I fitted an ETZ alternator into an ES250 and the tick-over/starting and general running were much improved. I also had a supa5 with a power dynamo ignition and that didn’t hunt on over-run. The ETZ alternator was cheaper as I had one and didi my own machining but the power dynamo set-up is very good, probably around £300 now though.
Motocarb number is 0151 924 5383 and the boss is Steve.
Hope that helps.
Malcolm.I remember reading about an SU carb swap in an early MZ Rider a long time ago.
Don’t know how successful it was but from experience with my 350 Jawa I would recommend a Mikuni VM. Brilliant carb and easy to swap if you can use a lathe.
Most MZcarbs must be getting to the worn-out stage by now.Depends how it chooses to let go!
It can lock up the engine and spit you off, rollers can get into the transfer ports and wreck to engine and spit you off!
Why risk a potentially fatal accident and increased cost or write off.
JFDI.It is fairly easy to over-plate the corrosion using MIG or TIG welding.
If you can fold two half sections accurately to suit the outside dimensions of the box section, with the joint lines on the fore and aft centreline. cut out a slot to fit around the centre stand mount and weld to sound metal.
Normal arc welding will be difficult as you will tend to burn through but using MIG on a thin wire (1mm or so) Not the flux-cored crap but proper gas-shielded MIG. At a pinch, you can gas weld but MIG is easier.
You will have to clean any paint or rust as MIG doesn’t like a dirty joint.
Most garages or welding shops will do the welding if you make the parts.
The slot around the centre stand tube have to close enough to allow welding of the tube to the new plate.
I did one a few years back and it worked perfectly.
The other option is to buy a scrap frame and cut the bottom portion off and butt-weld it to your frame.
“Cut your way in and weld your way out”
