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‘AAA Dummy
MemberNo Problem Peter and thanks for the update. Good to learn something new
Best Stuart‘AAA Dummy
MemberHi Rob
Hope you don’t mind me having a go at this one! PLEASE interject anyone who has other advice (always willing to learn).
Some time back on my running TS 250/1 I noticed a gear box 9clutch side oil leak so I thought to myself renew the clutch side casing seal so I bought a couple of thick ones from Martin (Burwins) and set about the renewal… only thing is that I took the kick start arm off (silly me)…
Now the point is that I had to reassemble the kickstart before replacing the clutch-side cover back with the new seal.I would inspect the spring to make sure it is ok and located as it should be.
Others will no doubt be able to illuminate on names of parts. You will need a vice with soft teeth and you need to place the shaft in the vice and turn the casing 1 and a quarter turns and replace the kick start arm and cotter pin.
There is a video on you tube (about 59 mins) in English dubbed which shows you how to!!!
It sounds to me that the spring is too loose The link is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ptXHE2i0x0 Note it is an ETZ but the principal is the same. Just been on the site and the video is a but stop / start but might be my internet connection
Best Stuart‘AAA Dummy
Memberrelease lever that should have been
‘AAA Dummy
MemberTry and get the best linings,wheel back in, don’t tighten the wheel yet, brake on pump the forks up and down a couple of times centres things up, lock brake on with cable tie to brake leaver then tighten up torque arm then wheel release arm then adjust to suit
‘AAA Dummy
MemberCheck the output from the regulator and service the regulator.
I had all kinds of cut out issues with my TS250/1 when riding and then turning the indicators and the lights on. Almost imposiible to keep the engine running with both the lights and the indicators on. Worse at low revs when approaching roundabaouts. On my bike tickover was poor at standstill but it did tickover. In the end I replaced the electromechanical regulator with an electronic device and the improvement was dramatic. Tick over much much better. Does not stall at junctions and roundabouts. Does not stall with the indicators one. Does not stall with lights on. I suspect it was never making a consistent voltage at low revs under load.
‘AAA Dummy
MemberTom is right
As its a 125/150 then running it in is gunner be a right pain 1.5 to 2 thou would be about right thats 40-50 micron in new money
Three thou would work but it would be a little rattley almost at first start and would settle down to somewhere between 4 to 5 thou (100-125 microns)after running in and this will produce a proper piston slap on cold start up !
30 microns is a touch to tight and you would have to be a proper saint to get that run in without a nip up
I have never yet heard a quiet mz without a little rattle /tinkle if it was that would then make it a yamaha !!!! (Suzukis and sakakakis also rattle )In conclusion my money is on 0.04-0.05mm for the best compromise
Others may differ (what does the manual say?)
‘AAA Dummy
MemberHI I have not done it but I have a least 5 etzs125 and as many etzs 250/251. The 250 is a larger moteur and the rear wheel and swing arms are different. The etz 250 wheel is also wider. The difference is about 2cm.It is a lot of work for nothing. Both the 125 and 250 are nice bikes.Sell ,the 250 moteur and buy a 125/150 moteur. Many of the other etz parts are common but not the moteur and the rear end in general. Joseph Schock in Paris
‘AAA Dummy
MemberNicholas, thanks for the reply – it looks you have hit the nail on the head. I had swapped the carb from a working bike with no result. Following your post, I put my old coil back on and the bike fired right up. Looks like the new coils are not of the best quality. Thanks again, delighted to be back on the road.
‘AAA Dummy
MemberBack to square one. The bike would only start with a push (still minus air filter) and then ran for around 75 meters before dying again and refusing to restart (with and without air filter).
‘AAA Dummy
MemberTerry, very many thanks for your reply. I just took the air filter off and got my son to put his hand on the end of the intake hose. Plenty of suction. Just for the sake of it I switched on the ignition and to my astonishment it fired up – after weeks of not even getting a single bang from it. I will put the filter back later and try again.
‘AAA Dummy
MemberHi Wayne I have replaced one earlier this year the seat cover is easily replaced by removing the back tool box panel and snipping the cord that runs through the seat (its a tie cord), you then have to careful bend back the retaining lugs that secure the seat as if corroded they will snap off. When replacing pull the cord and tie off and cut the surplus cord…. I actually lost quite a few of the lugs but used some 1/4 inch aluminium right angle to secure the seat to the base drilling through and using self tappers ( I do not notice the seat difference) I bought mine From Ebay but from a Hungarian supplier… I buy a lot from Ost2Rad and would suggest if buying from them you buy several things as that way you maximise against there postage cost (around £14)
ATB
Stuart‘AAA Dummy
MemberHi Ollie
In Answer to your question when these bikes were produced they would have been fitted with open bearings DDR and a sort of a rubber washer would have been fitted between that plate and the bearing to protect from ingress and dirt ETC. I had a couple of wheels built last year and read on a couple of forums that closed bearings are a modern choice and do not require any protection. Other advise may differ but the closed bearings work for me. I have even knocked out the open type and replaced with the closed type… I am a fair weather rider to be honest!!!You can buy the closed type ( I use bearing options on EBAY) the manufacturer is Challenge and the number is 6302 ZC3 ( guess the ZC3 denotes closed type)
Best of luck Stuart
‘AAA Dummy
MemberOk here goes
Key straight ahead = normal running with no lights
One click to left = as above with sidelights
One more click to left = plus headlight
One click to right = all off + key comes out
One more click to right = parking lights + key comes out
Last click to right = emergency startHope this helps
‘AAA Dummy
MemberJust another thought there are cheap electric spray guns available like this Clarke one, cheers Steve. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cas110-electric-spray-gun
‘AAA Dummy
MemberHi Nigel, yes cellulose should work fine, the only problem I had with it in the past was you had to make sure where you are going to spray that the tank and the room temperature is high enough and its not damp or cellulose will bloom, also make sure the tank is spotless or cellulose can react to the smallest amount of grease or oil. What I like about Tractol is its not affected by damp or temperature. Any way good luck I always seem to cock some thing up when painting, Cheers Steve.
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