'AAA Dummy

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Viewing 15 posts - 106 through 120 (of 157 total)
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  • in reply to: Sidecar For ETZ #8643
    ‘AAA Dummy
    Member

    By some luck ive managed to get hold of the special headstock/damper mounting assembly for the Squire type sidecar as offered by Wilf Green,and the clamp that goes on the footbrake tube,so just the chair itself to locate now 🙂

    in reply to: Sidecar For ETZ #8461
    ‘AAA Dummy
    Member

    Biggest problem seems to be finding one with the fittings for the MZ frame,I can’t afford the £500+ Watsonian would want to supply them,if they can still supply them.As with many things years ago the club mag was full of them,all gone now it seems

    in reply to: ES twistgrip stop spring #8385
    ‘AAA Dummy
    Member

    Hi Derek
    I don’t personally have one for you, I do have a couple of bits but am hanging on to them (cables and bars such like). May I make a suggestion: If you can’t get one here then there are two other choices 1) either wait until you have a large enough order to make it “post cost effective” or 2) if you know other members ordering then perhaps they may tack on your spring to theirs, just a helpful thought
    Hope you get there in the finish
    best
    Stuart

    in reply to: Sidecar For ETZ #8384
    ‘AAA Dummy
    Member

    Thanks for the offer George but i need something that can carry a child so a Squire or Mitzi would be ideal
    Dan

    in reply to: wiring help needed #8224
    ‘AAA Dummy
    Member

    Hi

    Have a look at the wiring diagram on the page below.

    http://www.sweller.co.uk/mz/electrics/wir_tz12.html

    If I am reading it right the D+ on the regulator goes to the D+ on the rectifier with a red and yellow wire.

    Hope this helps.

    Rhodri

    in reply to: ETZ 250 Seized #8162
    ‘AAA Dummy
    Member

    I had the same thing happen from a blocked exhaust actually, at a sustained 60-65 im guessing that EGTs got too high and the motor locked up then freed up by the next layby. Had just swapped the exhaust from a very leaky but free flowing one where the bike was noisy but would sit at 80mph happily, swapped exhaust and the next ride top speed was down to 70 and I had the seisure at around 65 after a long climb

    in reply to: Simson S51 attaching mudflap to mudguard #8095
    ‘AAA Dummy
    Member

    Hello Derek,

    Thanks for the suggestion to use nuts and bolts, this might well be a lot easier, the mud flap and mud guard are both pre-drilled so this is not an issue.

    Kind regards,

    Mark

    in reply to: Simson S51 attaching mudflap to mudguard #8082
    ‘AAA Dummy
    Member

    Hi Duncan, many thanks for your answer, as I’ve never tired riveting, would a ‘standard’ rivet gun work with the Simson rivets? Cheers, Mark

    in reply to: Simson S51 attaching mudflap to mudguard #8076
    ‘AAA Dummy
    Member

    you use a pop rivet gun and hey presto new mudflaps

    in reply to: Unable to select neutral #7941
    ‘AAA Dummy
    Member

    well clutch adjustment is the obvious starting point,but would have assumed you had done that.tight chain could also affect it

    in reply to: ETZ 250 Seized #7854
    ‘AAA Dummy
    Member

    Check your oil pump cable is a.working and b.adjusted correctly,does it smoke much?

    in reply to: TS250/1 Crank seals???? #7853
    ‘AAA Dummy
    Member

    Replacing the carburettor sorted this out. I bought a BVF copy/clone from Poland (£45 including post). Started straight up and ran perfectly. The quality is pretty dire though (as you might expect for the money). Longer term I will be looking to put a Mikuni on it.

    in reply to: TS250/1 Crank seals???? #7691
    ‘AAA Dummy
    Member

    Thanks Rob, Yes, I believe the spacer method would work equally well. I just got a 100mm M10 bolt and screwed it in, popped straight off.

    Well, I changed the generator side seal….. No improvement, so I got myself a clutch puller and an engine locker and changed the clutch side seal. Guess what…. no improvement.

    I will revisit the carb and manifold, although I thought I had been pretty thorough the first time. Perhaps I will try a different carburettor if I can get my hands on something that fits. The only thing I can add is that by trial and error I discovered that if I drop the throttle needle right down to it’s lowest position (top notch – weakest?) then it will run at a lower tickover (2000 rpm) but still if I blip it revs up and takes ages to settle back down to 2000.

    At least I have eliminated the seals as the cause, I know I have a good set of seals in and I won’t feel as daunted at tackling the job on other bikes in the future.

    in reply to: TS250/1 Crank seals???? #7657
    ‘AAA Dummy
    Member

    That’s brilliant. Thanks very much Peter, that is exactly what I needed. I have ordered the seal and will see how it goes… If there’s no improvement I will tackle the drive side which I guess needs a clutch puller.
    Thanks again,
    Pete.

    in reply to: clutch housing for cable #7261
    ‘AAA Dummy
    Member

    Hi Mick

    I have a spare clutch cable barrel from when I built up my TS250/1.

    If you drop me a line with your address you can have it.

    Its just taking up room in the garage. Not much admittedly.

    I hung onto it as it might come in handy one day. Then 10 years later the need arises.

    Rhodri

Viewing 15 posts - 106 through 120 (of 157 total)