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Thanks for your view on this, as you say finding a good bike is the key and this is proving harder that i thought it would be
Regards RobHi Alan
Have tired your suggestion, unfortunately did not,I can push the bike in gear no resistance,so I the clutch maybe still be the problem.
Thanks for your help
MarcThanks Alan Kickstarter returns to top I think it may be a problem with the clutch will have to look at the weekend.
MarcHi Ian,
Did you get anywhere with this job?I’ve just bought a ’95 ETZ 251 with a tach that has a badly cracked lens. On close inspection it looks like the base of the rev counter is bonded or ultrasonically welded into the housing that contains the lens.
I’ve seen rev counter housings for sale on their own, suggesting the unit can be dismantled, but I can’t see a way of doing this short of careful sawing of the old housing. As the unite currently functions ok, this seems a little drastic!Any learning you managed if you managed the replacement would be interesting to know!
DrewYes, I had this problem once refuelling a Yamaha yz250. It was virtually empty, i didn’t turn off the petrol tap, and I put the oil in first on its own. I then put the petrol in from the pump and gave the bike a shake to mix it up, but it wouldn’t start as the oil had gone straight into the petrol tap. What I do now is turn off petrol tap, put in half the petrol then all the oil then the rest of the petrol, put cap on, and give it a good shake. I haven’t had a problem doing it this way on my mz
Hi Neil
Your comment “So the question is am I doing something wrong or was I unlucky, should I be adding oil first then petrol in the hope for agitation from flowing petrol??” is what I normally do and I don’t have any immediate problems running, however if I lay up the bike (and I do) when you go to re-use my bikes they can be temperamental but once warmed up usually things get back to normal.I also keep handy a plastic fuel cam with pre mix so if I am getting low I can use this and of course it’s easy to gently shake …..
ATB Stuart
Ian Thanks for the information we have a mzriders meet on sunday so my intention is to talk to other users and then make a decision on what to do. Cheers Mike Taylor oh and I cut my old silencer in half and really could not find anything wrong apart from corrosion not coked up ?
Ian
In the same boat as you how is your exhaust purchase shaping up? Is it a copy or genuine mz part? a friend has lent me an expansion box don’t think I can live with it ok as a temporary solution, it proved a point that my original is partially blocked I in tend to cut it up to see what goes on inside. I heard that the burwin ones are copies and noisey cannot be as bad and as anti social as this expansion box!! Got any thoughts or recomendations? cheers Mike Taylor
mikerwt1950@yahoo.comI am running an electronic regulator which means the condenser was removed when the electromechanical regulator was removed as stated in the fitting instructions. So I do not think it can be that.
I dismantled and rebuilt the carb. On dismantling the carb the gasket had disintegrated and fell to pieces. I replaced the float which wan very dented all over. No idea how that happens. Replaced the springs for throttle and choke. The choke plunger and the jets. The warm starting issue has now gone away. I assume the gasket was the issue but the throttle closes a lot more positively so that’s a plus.
I considered swapping out the original carb due to poor starting, lumpy idle and constant stalling at light and junctions. On advice from Phil Speakman at The MZ Shop I dropped the idea and changed the regulator instead. Transformed the running. After about 6 months the bike started to be difficult to start especially when warm. I rebuilt the original carb with new springs, choke plug, float, jets and most importantly the gasket that disintegrated when I dismantled it. Might be worth rebuilding the existing carb. It starts a lot better and warm starting issue has gone away, plus now gained about 10 mph top end with a rebuilt carb. Plus the throttle now closes faster with a new spring where it was a bit slow to close before. Probably cost less than £20 in parts and about an hour to complete. I would have changed the throttle needle as well if I could have found one for sale. Hope this helps.
Thank you for your reply. Looks like I need to ask my friend, who is good at bike electrics, to check out my wiring. I am OK at mechanical issues but electrics confuse me.
With all the bikes I have owned I have never come across 18mm nuts and bolts. I am begining to apreciate the idiosyncrasy of MZ and I think this is a big part of their attraction.
Hi Mark
Apologies if I am pitching low but have you adjusted the idle speed on the carb? I have a TS250/1 and on that bike the left hand screw which has the screw head angled downward is the idle adjust. The further you screw it in the higher it pushes the throttle body and the faster it tries to tick over. The idle mixture screw to the right will also be important. Set it as per manua,l for mine its 2.5 turns out. Set it at the manual recommended position with a healthy idle speed and see if that does the trick.
Failing that check the voltage coming off the regulator. I had trouble for ages with a lumpy idle and constant stalling at standstill, much worse with lights on. When I changed to a an electric regulator the bike was transformed.
Rhodri
