- This topic has 20 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 6 months ago by Anonymous.
January 19, 2015 at 11:47 am #4708AnonymousInactive
Am going to rebuild the engine of my 250, I acquired the bike last year and frame wise she’s perfect having had a full resto by a previous owner, but the bike has ran like a dog. she has a oil leak along the crankcase half’s, kickstart spring went, and the crank seals are now blowing. The bike is fitted with the standard points ignition, but i have a electronic ignition kit to fit, and replaced the loaf tin regulator with a electronic version. So during the rebuild id like to fit the ignition kit (came from Burwins but not there own kit, its not the one that replaces the whole alternator, just the coil etc)the only downside is that my Tacho won’t work with this kit, they do say in the pidgin english instructions there is a workaround but does not explain how to go about this.. any ideas? i want to retain a working tacho.
Also tools, on the ost2rad site they have 2 flywheel pullers available for the etz, but little explanation as to which i need for a point setup etz engine, do any of the members here sell a set of factory tools? i know the drawings are in the manual but I’ve not got means to get them made up. what tools are vital for a complete teardown and rebuild? and finally.. i need a little more torque.. i bought the MZ as a “camping bike”so she will be loaded with camping kit and i go up into the Highlands. so basically how easy is a 300cc conversion to do? Ive never rebuilt a MZ engine, only ever owned 2, this ETZ and a TS250 Supa 5 in the early 90s. But I’ve done a Kawasaki KH125 Engine, and a few single and twin 4 stroke jap motors over the years… and if anyone has the head/barrel for a 300 conversion or a complete motor (not worried if it needs a rebuild) drop me a message at billystewart1973(at)msn(dot)com (i hope this is ok with the site admin, I’m a new member)
And sorry for the long post.. i just wanted to cover as many questions as i could in a single go.
January 19, 2015 at 9:28 pm #4710AnonymousInactive
hi if you try this link
it is a series of films showing you how to strip / rebuild your motor if yoy have a good root about on youtube there is a version in english……Ian
January 19, 2015 at 9:33 pm #4711AnonymousInactive
also this guy sells this crank case splitter,
the clutch puller and rotor puller are availabl quite cheaply if you look on the internet…..ian
January 19, 2015 at 10:21 pm #4712AnonymousInactive
Thanks for replying, the crankcase splitter is one tool i looked at, and whats the other one with all the holes of differing sizes..
Looks like its made out of box section with various holes drilled into it. if any member makes these up for less than the 85 euros that ost2rad want id be interested. a engine stand would also be a useful thing to have. I really want to get this bike running as well as it looks. and to do some serious miles on it, not just have it sitting looking pretty in my lockup, and terrified to take it on a long run in case it breaks down. its there to be used after all.
Other things id like to do is fit a screen, and some ammunition boxes or craven style hard cases, instead of using the soft pannier bags. so if anyone has touring screen recommendations?
January 26, 2015 at 6:03 pm #4738
Hi im a new member but not new to mz
the tool pictured is the proper crank case splitting tool it would require a correct to drawing clutch puller and a further tool the name of which escapes me now.and I don’t have my manual to hand.
I have a fully equipped workshop and could price up the tools and make any in the rear of the factory manual.
Years ago whilst heavily involved in mz I made a set so making is not an issue.
I would personally recommend that the correct tool as shown is used it may avoid negligent damage to the crank cases.
other useful tools are the oil seal application drifts allowing refit of the seals without removing the engine from the machine.
please ask for any more info
Big Al. Oxford Outlaw.
January 27, 2015 at 10:24 am #4742AnonymousInactive
Alan, i would be most grateful if you could do that. Price me up a set of tools for doing the job. as long as it won’t be insanely expensive. At the moment I’m buying up the parts to do the rebuild.and trying to source a 301 barrel and head. Which so far has eluded me.
January 28, 2015 at 11:46 am #4743AnonymousInactive
Hi, I might well be interested in a set of tools as well if reasonably priced. bren.
January 29, 2015 at 9:21 pm #4745AnonymousInactive
HI I would be interested in buying the tools if you made them…thanks….Ian
January 29, 2015 at 9:47 pm #4747AnonymousInactive
There we go, 3 sets of tools required, and I’m sure a few other members would be interested as well if the price is right Alan. Feel free to contact me via my email at email@example.com with a quote for the complete set. I think that would be the splitter, clutch puller, alternator puller, and the other drifts etc the appear in the manual. for doing the engine.
February 6, 2015 at 5:51 am #4824
Sorry for the delay
I make a lot of other stuff so Ive been busy.
I will get the manual out and price them up
that would be splitter ,clutch puller ,alternator puller and the two seal drifts
Myself I have got away with using the one.
I shall price up individually.
I also am making the old style friction steering dampers for TS and ETZ
February 6, 2015 at 11:29 am #4825AnonymousInactive
Hi Alan, likewise me at firstname.lastname@example.org
February 6, 2015 at 6:59 pm #4829
Looking into this quickly I will not be able to beat ost rads price on anything they sell.
KGS are selling a clutch puller and fot a high chrome part I cannot compete with that either his engine splitting tool looks good as well.
Really I don’t want to tread on his toes or use his design.
The alternator puller is realistically a bolt with a bar welded on it and ost rad are as cheap as I can go.
That leaves the bearing / oil seal drifts I can make one that will do both jobs for about £20 ish a side.
Thats how it is from here. I have to buy in material and finance making the stuff.
February 6, 2015 at 10:27 pm #4831
Regarding clutch puller the only thing I would add is the factory design is far better than any other it has a protection piece that stops the end of the bolt coming into contact with the crank, my own model has a tee bar allowing you to hit both ends with a hammer simultaneously which shocks the clutch off.
The bolt /spanner style is realistically in my opinion of poor design.
I would be prepared to make clutch pullers as described but have yet to work out cost.
how desperate are you for the tools?
I may work something out, are you local to Nottingham?
Big Al Oxford Outlaw.
February 7, 2015 at 2:45 pm #4837AnonymousInactive
Nope im in North East of Scotland, Aberdeen. I might see if the girlfriends father can do something,… they have a propellor manufacturing and refurbishing engineering works. so if its stuff that can be turned down or milled on there gear i may see if they can do something. do you know the thread and pitch of the pullers/tools.. as that would be a great help.
I need the tools for the middle of march, as i plan to have bike back on the road by end of march. i do have a full set of alloy drifts made specifically for seating bearings. If you can get a price for the clutch puller worked out and i can have my hands on it by mid march.well that would be great.
February 7, 2015 at 4:48 pm #4839
Right I’ve had a good look at this so here goes
I will make a channel iron bridge which will do the job but is not the same as ost rads or kgs.
Two bearing / oil seal fitting drifts
Clutch puller Tee handle type and protection piece.
and alternator puller Tee handle.
this set will do everything you need to split the engine I would recommend a set of three leg pullers that will turn into two legs if required, ( the two legs remove primary drive gear)
I will source these and add to the set if required
cost £90.00 without the above.
Are you all still interested?
An old bungee strap is also necessary as remove all the final drive and primary stuff clutch alternator prior to removing the barrel and head.
this make the job real easy.
Big Al Oxford Outlaw.
February 7, 2015 at 6:49 pm #4840
February 7, 2015 at 6:52 pm #4841
February 9, 2015 at 10:05 pm #4873AnonymousInactive
Thats a little pricey tbh.. kgs got back to me from a email i fired off a while ago, and he has quoted £48 inc post for his splitter, t-handle tool for alternator side and clutch removal tool. i own a set of oil seal and bearing drifts made from alloy. and a set of 3 and 2 legged pullers. so am confident along with my dial gauge, that i should be able to get the motor done. after all i only plan on doing this as a 1 off or occasional thing every few years. So have to go where i can get the best value.
February 10, 2015 at 7:21 am #4874
We all have to get best value.
best of luck with it.
February 10, 2015 at 3:39 pm #4877
Hi Just to clear up.
I was of course pricing on a set of tools made to factory drawings apart from the disassembling bridge (which would have mimicked the original)
Obviously the crank end protection piece would have been included in my price along with a photographed step by step guide and a phone number (mine) to use as a help line.
The seal/bearing drifts would allow refit of seals with the engine in frame and would have fitted the components perfectly.
Although £90.00 quid may seem expensive we also have to consider cost of tooling, materials and labor.
I priced at two hours work (machining, welding) a set and materials.
That was inclusive of high tensile bolts for the tee bars.
February 26, 2015 at 12:34 am #4974AnonymousInactive
Right i have the tools, and i have all the parts to do my existing motor, I’ve also got hold of a spare lump to rebuild as and when time/money allows. Any suggestions on where to get the Barrel and head rebored and modified? looking to take it out to 300cc for more torque, and get the head squish modified to ensure everything fits as required. the spare lump has seized from sitting. but its all there, so figured it was worth the money i bartered for.. not a lot, so should get the moneys worth out of usable parts if its worse than i expect. If the cranks shagged i guess i can pick a decent one up somewhere to put in it.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.